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99 



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OR- 



leaves from the Diary of a Centoiiiiial Pilgrim. 



^ NM Book ffioi^ i\ m nyyiioti. 

Beiiuf a Truthful Accoimt of a Trip to the Centennud C'lty via 

Washington, and Return via Niagara J^alls^ irifh a 

Graphic Description of the J^xhiMtioji itself. 

BY DAVID BAII.EY. TEACHElt. 



Terms : 

Bounfl in flexible covers, per copy •'^O TH 

cloth. " 1 00 

Agents WaiUed. Address DAVID BAILEY, 

Highland P. O., Hii^hland County. O. 



TESTIMONIALS. 

Cedar Fails. Iowa, March 10, 1877. 

There are two classes of people in the United States, those who 
did go to the Centennial, and those who did not. The former 
class can hardly fail to be interested in reading- Mr. Bailey's 
"Eastward Ho!" and comparing the author's adventures, expe- 
riences and observations with their own. 

The other class must content themselves with learning fi-ora the 
lips or pens of others, the wonders of the Exhibition. To such, 
this book will prove a welcome companion. 

{oyer) 



The Author tells his story in the simple, fresh and spicy style 
so interesting to pupils, without attempt at spread eagle eloquence 
or showy rhetoric. He knows how to amuse as well as to instruct. 
T hope the work will have a ready and extensive sale. 

D. S. WRIGHT, A. >T., 
Prof, of Eno-lish Branches. &c.. Iowa State Normal School. 



HiLLSBORO, O., March 17, 1877. 
The perusal of the advanced sheets of "Eastward Ho!" has given 
me great pleasure. The work describes the Great Centennial Ex- 
position, as seen by one of our fellow-citizens, and is highly cred- 
itable to him as an author. Tlie chapters on "Washington City" 
and "Two Days in the Art Gallery," are particularly enjoyable. 
The work is written in a pleasing style, and is faithful and correct 
in its descriptions It deserves a large sale. . 

H. S. DOGGETT. 
Superintendent Union Schools, Hillsboro, O. 



MoEROw, O , March 17, 1877. 
Mr. Bailey — Dear Sir: Having examined your new book, enti- 
tled "Eastward Ho!" and being familiar with the route described 
therein, I can unhesitatingly recommend it to the public, as an 
accurate, interesting and instructive work. 

Yours Truly, T. J. WYSCARVER, 

Superintendent of Union Schools, Morrow, O. 



Hillsboro, O., March 29, 1877. 
I have read with care the sheets of Mr. Bailey's book, as they 
were passing through the press, and can heartily endorse the fa- 
vorable opinions above given. His descriptions of the Centennial 
Exhibition are remarkably accurate and life-like, and the entire 
work is written in a natural, lively and entertaining style, which 
at once secures the reader's attention and holds it to the end. The 
chapter on Washington City is especially interesting and instruc- 
tive. Mr. Bailey has shown his good sense and sound judgment 
by avoiding any attempt at "fine writing" — the common fault of 
young authors — and has produced a book that does credit to his 
literary taste and ability. It gives me great pleasure to recom- 
mend the work as every way worthy of public patronage. 

J. L. BOARDMAN, 
Editor Highland News. 



u 



EASTWARD HO!" 



OR 



LEAVES FROM THE DIARY 



OF A 



CENTENNIAL PILG[[I« 



liEING A TRUTHTUL ACCOUNT OF A TIUP TO TUE CENTEXXIAL CITY 

VIA VCASHINGTOX, AND THE RETURN VIA NIAGARA I'Al.I.S, 

WITH A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE 

EXHIBITION ITSELF. 

By David ^ailey, Je^cher. 

ILLUSTRATED. 



rUBLISHED BV DAVID UAILEV, HIGHLAND V. O., HIGHLAND COUNTY, O. 

1877. 



)l 



7-q *N 



Entei-ed according to Act of Csngrese, in the year ISTd, 

n y DAVID BAILEY, 

in the Office ol ttie Librarinn of CoiigrcsF, Washington, D. C. 

I-'BISTED AT THE nionUiND JJEWS OFFICE, UILLSBDIIO, O. 






." '~'.y 



Dedication. 

10 WI55 iRUt HOLBfiOOk, 

flrofi\?j.^oi[ of \\K'm\i pncjungofj in Ik |Jatioiinl ^'onnal 

m'ltool, l^ebnnou, :|Phio, 

J J J 

I.N THE HOPE THAT SHE WILL REMEMBER HIS ERRORS AS A PUPIL, AND 
BE PLEASED WITH THE IMPROVEMENT SHOWN HEREIN, 

THIS LITTLE WORK IH RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 

B~^ THE J^TJTHIOIR. 



Preface 



Critic, this book is not -written for yon. You may waste your 
time upon it if you choose, but the writer makes no pretensions 
to literary ability. His greatest ambition in this direction is, to 
spell all the hard words correctly, to make the finite verbs agree 
with their subjects, and pronouns with their antecedents. 

"Why write at all, then f 

Well, why shouldn't a book be written once in a great while, 
which the people can read understandingly ? This book is writ- 
ten for the people — the common people, who know little and care 
less about rhetoric — the country people, "of whom I am which." 

Teacher, the author would invite your attention to his effort. As 
a teacher he wrote, and it was for his school that he wrcti it. Not 
until he had written a good portion of it, did he think of publish- 
ing. His object was to prevent tardiness. You may think, when 
you have read the book, that his pupils would remain away, that 
they might not hear it, but ho would assure you that, with appro- 
priate stereoscopic illustrations, it was interesting to the7ii, how- 
ever dull it may be to you. To you, he would recommend it as a 
sample of what a Normal Teacher will do to interest his little 
country school. 

To the general reader, the author would say, that he has striven 
to make the book entertaining. He feels that, in some cases, he 
ran too much into the catalogue style, but when you remember 
that it was through his desire to tell you all he saw, he hopes to 
be excused. 

Believing that the great question with every American is: 
"What did it cost T he has, when convenient, given the cost of the 
articles described. 

If you visited the Exhibition, the author hopes that ho has so 
written that, when you wish to tell a friend what you saw, you 
will refer to the book to refresh your memory. If you were not 
80 fortunate, he hopes he has so written that you may gain a faint 
idea of the grandeur of our Centenni.^l Exuibitiox. 

In expanding his notes, the Author has received material assist- 



VI. 

anco from the correspondents of the journals of the day, amonj^ 
which he would mention, "Tlie Toledo Blade," "Scvibner's Maga- 
zine," ''Phrenological Journal," and "Arthur's Home Magazine." 
Ho acknowledges his indebtedness to the publishers of those pe- 
riodicals. The part concerning Baltimore was prepared by a 
friend, a native of that city, who has of late renewed his acquaint- 
ance with the city by several protracted visits to the place of his 
nativity. 

Highland, 0!iio, March 10, 1877. D. B. 



JaBLE op C0NT£|MT3. 

CHAPTER I. 

PAGE. 

From Lexington to Washington, 1 

CITAPTEr. II. 

In Washington, 5 

CHAPTER III. 

Washington to Philadelphio, — Baltimore, 21 

CHAPTER IV. 

The Centennial Fourth at Philadelphia, 28 

CHAPTER V. 

Here and There on the Exhibition Grounds, 34 

CHAPTER VI. 

Two Days in the. Centennial Art Gallery 45 

CHAPTER VII. 

Machinery Hall, fi8 

CHAPTER \7II. 

Main Bmlding and Agricultural Hall, 66 

CHAPTER rx. 

Last Day at the Centennial — The Centennial City, 79 

CHAPTER X. 

Homeward Bound — Niagara Fallp, 86 



J.13T Of Illustration?.. 



PAGE. 



1. ladepeudence HtiU, Chestnut Street Front, . .Frontispiece. 

2. U. S. Capitol, Washington, D. C, 10 

3. Ulysses S. Grant, late President of the Iinited States. 20 

4. Gen. Joseph E. Hawley, 29 

5. R. B. Hayes, Ex-Governor of Ohio, President of the U. S. 41 

6. Samuel J. Tilden, • 43 

7. Memorial Hall — Centennial Exhibition, 4G 

8. Alfred T. Goshorn, 65 

9. Family Group from Sweden, 69 

10. New Jersey State Building, 81 

11. Mrs. Maxwell in Hunting Costume, 84 



CHAPTER I. 

FROM LEXINGTON* TO WASHIXCiTON. 

"Singing through the forests, 

Kattling over ritlge><, 
Shooting under archcp, 

Rnaibling over bridge?, 
Whizzing tlirough tlie mouutains, 

Riizzing oe'r flie vale — 
Bless nie ! this is pleasant, 

hiding on a Rail." — f?axe. 

It WIS on a damp day, tlie last but one in Juno, that I left 
home on this tour. The advantages in favor of a through ticket, 
influenced me to start West instead of East to get to Philadel- 
phia. I went no further than Cincinnati, however, and I came 
back th=i same evening, and was joined at Lexington by my friend, 
Mv. ()., who is to be my inseparable companicn throughout the 
tour. 

We stopped at Greenfield to wait for the Night Express. At 
about one o'clock A. M. June 30th, it came up, and we stepped 
aboard the car, from which we did not emerge until we arrived 
at Washington, about six that afternoon. 

or course I cannot give you a detailed account of this night's 
ride, but there will be but little loss, as there is not much to 
write concerning a night ride. You are shut up with about seventy- 
five sleepy strangers, so, if there are no accidents, it is as dull 
a place as can be imagined. Thire was one incident, however, 
tliat attracted our attention. 

The c:\r was crowded. Every seat had two occupants, with one 
ex "cption. In that seat dozed a burly mulatto. A passenger 
came aboard, and there being no vacant seat, the Conductor at- 
tacked tlie negro. 

'•Get u^ here," says he. 

"Let me alone," growled the negro, in his sleep. 

"Up with you," says the Conductor, emphasizing his wcrds 
by shaking the man. 

"L:)ok ouf, I'se got a rebolber here," says the excited darker, 
now half awake. 

• A village CO n iles East of Cinrinnati. on the M. it f. IJ. U. 



EAST WAR D HO 



"I clout care if you have; get up and let the gentleman have a 
seat," cried the Con il actor, roughly. 

Africa was compellod to succumb, and, with the Conductor's 
help, pulled out from u:-der the seat, the biggest carpet-bag I ever 
set eyes on. It was about as large as a shock of wheat. This be 
deposited on the wood box in the corner of the oar, and the 
scene was over; but the next day I saw that dusky son of Han:, 
busily engaged in writing. 

Now you know that the best of penmen cannot write legibly 
in the cars while they are moving, so curiosity prompted me 
to look over the writer's shoulder, and such a collection of spider- 
tracks I never saw. As long as we remained on the train, that 
man continued to write, and in the evening, when we went into 
the Senate Chamber at Washington, there sat our colored friend in 
the gallery, scribbling away as though his life depended npon it. 
We saw him no more, but we wondered the last time we saw him 
whether he was a little crazy, or only a natural fool. But the 
longest night will have its ending, and so had this one, for as we 
drew near Athens we began to see the first faint glimmerings of 
day in the East; but our tireless steed hurried us on through 
the fertile valley of the Hocking River, and we arrived at the Ohio 
at Balpre, ere the God of day had far advanced on his accustomed 
circuit. 

The ti'ain stopped here for breakfast, and such of the passengers 
as were not so fortunate as to be pi'ovided with lunch, tried the 
tender mercies of the waiters at the railroad eating house, paying 
seventy five cents each for the privilege. 

After about a quarter of an hour, the train moves over the broad 
Ohio, on a bridge so narrow that j^ou cannot see it without lean- 
ing further out of the car window than is pleasant, as you see tho 
deep waters rolling far below you. The bridge rests on a high 
blutr on the We^st, and as there is a considerable valley on tho 
Evst, we piss over the roofs of the highest houses in Parkersburg 
ere we reiich to'rajlrjtti on the rise beyond. After a short pause 
here, we go on through a few fertile valleys, among which is that 
of the Little Kanawha, and then we begin to see something like 
mountains, or at least it seemed so to our uninitiated eyes, but we 
soon learned that this was merely a foretaste. At Grafton we are 
joined by tliree or fotir car loads of Centennial-bound passengers 
from the other branch of the B. & O. Road, from Columbus and 



EASTWARD no; 



the West, via Wheeling, after which we are apjain hurried onward. 

Just before we arrived at Clarksburg', we passed the wreck of 
a freiglit train; the engine hael exploded her boiler, and such a 
wreck! 

C.ir after car of shelled corn were crushed and their contents scat- 
tered: here a wheel and there a plate of iron, was all that we could 
see of the engine; tlie track was broken and displaced for some 
distance; but fortunately no one was hurt by the explosion. 

On we go, and as we begin the ascent of the Alleghenies we no- 
tice, as the train winds in and out on the side of the, oftentimes, 
almost parpendiculiir walls of the gorge of Cheat river, that two 
giant locomotives are paiEng away with their heavy load of hu- 
man freight. 

Here is the mount lin scenery that the whole world is crazy to 
see. We rush along with lightning fpeed, on a narrow shelf or 
terrace, while far below we see the tops of tall trees, and, still far 
below their feet, we can here and there catch a glimpse of the 
foaming ed lies of the Cheat, as it dashes on in its rocky bed. 
One does not feel much afraid, and yet, I suppose, every one 
has a thought as to what would happen should a rail or a wheel 
break on this steep declivity. 

On the other side of the stream the mountains rise abruptly, but 
the summits are sometimes so faraway that they have a dim look: 
at other times so near that we cannot see the top without leaning 
out of tbe cir window, which is not at all safe, for when we are 
thinking the least of it, we are 8U Idenly plunged into a darkness 
to which the dirkast night is no compirison. and we know that 
we are passing through a tunnel. We pass through. twenty-seven 
tunnels ere we reach the summit of the range. 

Sometimes, weary of the scene on the North, we turned to the 
South, and a bare wall of earth and rock, or the steep, rocky slope 
of a mountain, whos3 top was not visible from the car, would 
meet our e3'es. 

About noon we reach the summit of the range, some three 
thousand feet above the sea level. Here one of the engines leaves 
x\H, though we do not stop, but go on with increased velocity. 

Daring this ride wa saw but little farming land. Rocky moun- 
tain slopes, covered with pine, cedar and laurel, with here and 
there a village nestled down by the side of a creek, in a valley of 
the mountains, was the extent of the scenery; but it was novel to 



E A s T w A i; D no! 



us, so we did not tire of it, as we were Lurried on through the 
ever-changing landscape. 

The scenery on the eastern slope of the Alleghenies is similar 
to that on the West. Hero the road follows the northern branch 
of the Potomac, until it is joined by the Shenandoah and passes 
through the Blue Ridge. 

Being somewhat weary of the scenery, 1 began to scrutinize 
the rocks with a scientific eye. Of course my investigations were 
very meager, as we were traveling at the rate of more than thirtj' 
miles an hour, bat I coiild see that the stratified rocks dipped to 
the East, showing that the whole crust of the earth had been up- 
heaved when the Alleghenies were formed. I also noticed that 
many rocks were of a reddish color, showing that they were im- 
pregnated with a solution of iron. 

At Cumberland, Md., the train stopped for a late dinner. We 
had a hard time to become accustomed to Eastern habits. I told 
you before, that we took breakfast at Balpre, bat after we got 
over into Virginia, about ten o'clock, we stopped ngain for break- 
fast, and now about two we stop for dinner, and about five, as we 
were nearing Washington, we took our supper, but our lunch box- 
es were well supplied, and ?''e seemed to be able to stand it. 

At Harper's Ferry we made a short stop, and had time to take 
a glance at the old iibandoned Arsenal, which was dismantled at 
the opening of the late civil war, to prevent the rebels from profit- 
ing by the military stores deposited there: also r.t the old jail on 
the bluff, in which John Brown was confined after his ill starred 
raid for the purpose of freeing the slaves of Virginia and arming 
them, a few years before the war. 

Here, too, quite a large detachment of the Union army sui'- 
rendered to General Stonewall Jackson in 1SG2, at the time fi the 
Maryland invasion. It appeared to me that a few hundretl men 
ought to have held the high bluff against almost any force that 
could have been brought against it, but I do not set myself up as 
a military cjitic. 

To cut a long story short, we arrived at Washington about six 
P. M. and after being pulled this way and that by hotel runners, 
we wended our way to the Continental Hotel, secured rooms, 
and prepared to see as many "sights" as we could, before want of 
sleep and the fatigues of a long journey should overcome us. 



EASTWARD no! 



CHAPTER II. 



IX WASHINGTON. 



Would ynu sec tlic NaSon'p glory, 

Would you know the Nation's might ? 
You can learn it in this City, 

Ilcre its glory meets your sight. > 

The obliging^ c'erk of the hotel went witli us out into the street, 
and showed ns the Capitol, tind stiid thfit both houses of Confrress 
were in session. He said he knew ihi.s hopause a flag was flying 
over each wing of the Capitol, as these flags were taktn down 
when the Houses adjourned. We Uarned that the lantern at the 
top of the Dome was lighted at night, only when Congress was 
in session. 

We walked up and went into the Cupitol, ascending two long 
flights of stoue steps in gaining the entrance. We letirned after- 
ward that we went in at the back door, but everybody that walks 
up from tlie City does the same, so we were not alone. You will 
recollect that it was now night, and will excuse nie for not describ- 
ing the building i:i detai', as I couM only see it in outline myself. 

We passed on into the Hall ot the House of lie])resentativee, 
(we (lid not have to sit on the floor) and found but few in their 
places. Many of the Djmocrati.' ni -mln-rs wen^ away tit their Na- 
tional Convention at St. Louis, and as there was not much doing, 
many of the Republicans were taking their ease. 

You would be surprised if you couUl sec this, — which you would 
expact to be — an augnst body, for tliere is uittliUxj grand or impos- 
ing about tlie House in session. A man olT at one side, jumps up 
and says something to a man who sits up in a kind of a pulpit by 
himself; then another man on the other side of the House gets up 
!ind says something to the one who ha'^ just sat down: then half a- 
doz^n men jump up and begin to talk all at oner; tlien the man in 
the pulpit takes up a little mallet and striks the desk, and all the 
men but one take their seats; that one talks on, but nobody seems 
to h^ listening, and you can't luar him. • Presently you hear some 
one clapping his hands. You look all around, but all you can seo 



6 EASTWARDHO 



is a little boy running out through the aisles. You soon see him 
stop at a desk, and a member gives him a pajjer; you soon learn 
that the members call the pages or errand boys by clapping their 
hands. This is the House of Representatives. 

We passed into the other wing of the Capitol, and saw the Sen- 
ate in session. It was a very little more dignified than the House. 
Vice-President Wilson being dead. Senator Ferry had been 
called upon to preside over the deliberations of the Senate. He 
is a noble looking man, in the prime of life. We looked around 
over the Chamber, and saw that the desk of Morton, of Ind., 
which we recognized by a peculiar arrangement on which he leans 
while speaking, was vacant. We soon recognized Senator Logan, 
of Ills., from engravings of him which we had seen, and after a 
while I recon;nized Senator Wright of Iowa, whom I had seen 
while residing in that State some years ago. 

We soon repair to our hotel, as we have slept none for about 
forty hours, and ere long we pass into the land of dreams, not- 
withstanding our peculiar surroundings.' 

As we were walking down the Avenue next morning, we were 
accosted by Prof. W., whom we had not seen for six months. As 
he was disengaged, he proposed looking around with us, so we all 
went up to the General Post Office, which is situated about mid- 
way between the Capitol and the White House, between E and F 
streets. It is a very fine marble edifice, and in it the Postal 
business of the Government is transacted. The City Post Office 
is also in this building, but there is not much to see here, so we 
cross F street to the Patent Office, which occupies two city squares, 
extending north from F street to G, and west, from Seventh to 
Ninth, and covering nearly three acres. It is a massive building, 
and has many elements of beauty. The Museum of Models occu- 
pies four grand halls, one on each side of the building, so these 
cases of models extend entirely round the two squares. 

We were informed by an affable clerk, with whom we had a 
long conversation, that there were about one hundred and seven- 
ty-five thousand models of machines in the cases, being models of 
all the inventions which have been patented in the United States, 
so, if you are good at figures, you can see that if we had given 
each model five minutes, it would have taken lis two years to have 
looked at all, giving twelve hours a day to the work, and resting 
only on Sundays. 



EASTWARD U O ! 



As we spoke of going, the aged clerk jumped up with alacrity 
and told us we must not go without a view from the roof of the 
building, which he assured us was the finest in the city. He said 
that they did not usually admit strangers to the roof, but that he 
would make an exception in our favor. 

The view mas grand, and very interesting to us, as this was our 
first glance at the city from suoh a stand point. Facing west, 
we see the Capitol, with its magnificent proportions, to our left, 
while to the right, we see the Treasury Department Building, and, 
a little further on, the White House, almost hidden by the trees 
of Lafayette Park. Turning the other way, we see the Howard 
University Buildings in the distanc9. This University is designed 
for the education of the colored I'ace. Directly in front of us, as 
we look to the west, is the Army and Navy Medical Museum, 
(formerly Ford's Theater, the scene of the assassination of Presi- 
dent Lincoln.) It has been remodeled since the tragedy, and made 
fire-proof, but the locality of the horrible event remains unchanged. 
It is open to all, but there is nothing of special interest save to 
the members of the medical fraternity. There are sixteen thous- 
and specimens, divided into sections. In the surgical section is 
shown the effect of missiles on the human body. Opposite this 
building is the house where Lincoln died. 

We took a kindly leave of the gentlemanly clerk, and then went 
on up to the Treasury Department. This building has four fronts. 
The North, South and West fronts are of similar architecture, be- 
ing broken by porticoes, with eight columns in front. On the 
North and South fronts you descend broad llights of steps of finest 
stone, to finely-paved enclosures, in each of whicli a most beauti- 
ful fountain is continually playing. Flowers of various hues ai*o 
to be seen on all sides within these enclosures. By man}' tliis is 
thought to bo the most beautiful of the public buildings in Waali- 
ington, but, where we have no fault to find with any, it is very dif- 
ficult to say which is the mnat beautiful. No psn picture can do 
justice to any of these buildings, unless the reader has been accus- 
tomed to such sights. 

The chief points of interest hero are the Cash K )om and 
the Vaults. On account of the near approacli of the great holi- 
day, the Centennial Fourth, the latter were closed. The walls of 
the Cash Room seem, at first sight, to be specimens of ornamental 
painting, but on closer insp3ction they prove to be made of diflerent 



8 E A S T W A E D H O ! 



kinds of mai-ble, so arranged as to pi-oduce a picturesque effect. 
Thfi most beautiful are the Dove marble from Vermont, and the 
white-veined Italian and Pj'renese. These walls are built \o rep- 
resent colnmns, with pedestil, shaf.', eapital, frieze and architrave, 
complete, ea:-h part of a different colored marble. 

At the Treasury D.^partment, I left my two companions, and 
went out into the City to find my cousin, an Attorney at Law 
and Law Reporter. After a long walk, and two or three mistakes, 
from being misdirected, I found him. He had been so busy that 
he neglected to meet us at the train the evening before, knowing 
that we could easily find him, were we so disposed. 

He hal just returned from Louisiana, where he had been as Re- 
porter of the House Invcsligaling Ccmmittec. He was prepar- 
ing the repDit for publication, and seemed to be well satisfied that 
thn-e was a species of terrorism in the South, which wo aid pre- 
vent the voting of nearly all belonging to one political party. 

As he was still very busy, I left him soon, promising to make 
hir; house our headquarters while we remained in the City, and 
went on alone to the White House, which is quite near the 
Treasury Dapirtment. The President's grounds comprise North, 
South and Lifayette Parks. The private grounds contain about 
twenty acres. In the private grounds are the stables, the conserva- 
tory, with its grand display of ti-opical plants, and the President's 
House. 

In the center of Lafiyette P.irk is an equestrian stitue of Gen. 
Andrew Jackson, mide f:om brassgnns and mortirs taken in battle. 
It weighs fifteen tons, and cost fifty thousand dollars. It is very 
imposing, and to increase the (ffjct, four brass cannons are jjosted 
as sentinels, one on either sidj. 

But I must <^o on throu^fh the North Park into the White 
H<nxse. Just in front of the l)uilding is a large fountain, sur- 
rounded by fljwers The house is built of freestone, painted 
white, and the exterior is very plain. The North front is broken 
by a large portico, wliich extends over the carriage-way, and the 
entrances are on the Eist and West sides of the portico, as well 
as tiie carriage way in front. From t!ie portico we pass into a 
grand hall. This is divided iuta two parts by a screen. Behind 
the screen are the portraits of former Presidents. Turning to the 
right, we pass into a corridor from which a stairway leads to the 
President's Office, on the second floor. Passing on directly across 



EASTWARD Ho! 



this corridor, we find ourselves at the threshold of the great East 
or Banqueting Room, which is about eighty feet long and half 
as wide. From the ceiling, which is magnificently ornamented 
in fresco, arc suspended two cut glass chandeliers, resembling 
a mass of diamonds in appearance. The walls are gorgeous in 
gold, but are somewhat toned down by the drab -gray ground, 
while the wood-work is all white and gold. There are four 
large mirrors on the side walls, and two at either end. My at- 
tention was particularly attracted to a bronze mantel clock, and 
some other unique ornaments. 

This room is alwnys open to the public, but the Blue, Green 
and Red Rooms are private, for the use of the President's family, 
and are thrown open to the public only when the lady of the man- 
sion holds receptions. We were informed, however, that they were 
even more luxurious than the East Room. They take their names 
from the prevailing color of the walls and furnishing. 

The South front of the building is ornamented by a grand semi- 
circular colonnade, consisting of six lofty columns. It is reached 
by two flights of steps. 

Every Saturday afternoon the Marine Band, one of the best in 
the country, plays in a pavilion on the grounds, and at that time 
it is a place of general resort. Old and young, rich and poor, high 
and low, black and white, congregate here on Saturday evenings, 
to enjoy the beauties of Nature, and listen to the soul-inspir- 
ing strains of the sweetest music. 

Is it any wonder that, after four years here, a man is loth to 
give up all its grandeur and go out to make his own way in the 
world? Is it right, after all, to support our President in such 
luxury ? 

I had hoped to get a glimpse of the President, but I found that 
he was so much occupied with business that no one was admitted 
to his ofiice; so I was compelled to take my departure with the 
other crest fallen ones. 

From the President's House, I went on up Pennsylvania Avenue 
a short distance, to tlie C'orcoran Art Galler}', which is open three 
days a week, free. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, an 
admission fee of twenty-five cents is charged. The buihling is of 
brick, with freestone ornaments. The entrance from I'cnnsyl- 
vania Avenue opens into a vestibule, where a polite clerk takes all 
canes, umbrellas, parasols, &?., giving a check in return This is 







'^^ f 111 

V ■ ... 



;!|!|fi||ii|lf lllll 




05 

H 

CO 



w 



EAST W A U I) H O I 11 

to prevent tho visitors from damaging the paintings with such ex- 
temporized pointers. From this vestibule, a broad stairway leads 
to tiie picture gallery on the second floor. This gallery was 
founded on Corcoran's private collection. He donated it to the 
city, and made additions to it afterward. I was somewhat disap- 
pointed in this gallery, though there were some fine paintings and 
statuary. Among tlie latter was ''Powers' Greek Slave," one of 
the most famous pieces of statuary in the world. There are also 
some rare bronzes and antiquities. From this place I went to our 
hotel, where I met my friend. 

In the afternoon (Saturday, July 1st) we visited the Capitol 
again. Its miin or real front is to the East, and as we approach 
it from that side we see its grandeur. Far up in the clouds, as it 
were, towers the beautiful and stately white dome, while below it 
we see three gr.ml p)rticj3s, ea^h approached by a broad flight of 
steps, and from these three porticoes are the three main entran- 
ces to the building. 

These porticoes are grand with columns and statuary, which I 
cannot attempt to describe here, but on the south buttress of tlie 
central portico is a gioup representing the Discovery of America. 
Columbus hold.s aloft in his hand a small globe, with America up- 
permost. Near him, a naked Indian girl is croucherl, as if in won- 
der and awe. On the north buttress is a group, representing the 
hardships of the early settlers of our country. A Pioneer is res- 
cuing a woman and child, probably ///.f wife and child, from a 
bloody death at the hands of a fierce Indian. His faithful dog is 
at his side. This group required twelve years for its completion, 
and cost §24,000. 

On the gables of these porticoes are colossal groups of allegori- 
cal figures, designed to represent the Genius of America, Civiliza- 
tion of the United States, &c. 

As we pass into the Rotunda of the Capitol, we notice that the 
great door of bronze is itself a pictorial history of the discovery of 
America. It is nineteen feet high, weighs ten tons, cost $28,000, 
and was designed in Rome. But we have not timo to loiter here; 
let us go in. 

Once on the inside, we are enclosed by a great jcircular wall of 
painting. High overhead we see a sky of painting, but we see 
grand pictures in front of us, and we cross a floor of finest marble 
to them. When wc turn, we are lost in the multitudes of colossal 



12 E A S T W A R D H O ! 



figures that look out at us from the pictured walls. Here we see 
"The Declaration of Independence," "The Surrender of Burgoyne," 
"The Surrender of Cornwallis," and "The Resignation of Wash- 
ington." We might spend hours here, but we must hurry on, for 
our time is short, and we must go up into the dome yet. 

Up we go, toiling on step after step, just inside the iron dome, 
on which the sun is pouring down bis hottest rays, (the thermom- 
ter indicating about ninety five in the shade.) Ever and anon we 
seize an opportunity to go out and take a breath of fresh air, and 
a view of the city from a new stand-point, then on we go. As we 
near the top of the inner dome, my friend says that he can go no 
farther. I tell him I shall go on, and he is left behind. Soon I 
take the highest view of the floor of the Rotunda, near two hun- 
dred feet below. Is it possible that those pigmies I see crossing 
the floor below, are human ? Yes, it must be so, for as I raise my 
eyes to the painting at my head, I find that the figures that I 
could scarcely discern from the floor below, are of giant size. 
Then I go on up to the highest point to which visitors are ad- 
mitted, though the lantern, with the statue of the Goddess of Lib- 
erty, extends some seventy feet higher. 

I walked around inside the balustrade, with the city spread out 
as a map before me, the broad Potomac on the West, and An- 
acosta Creek on the East. The horses on the streets looked as 
though they were as small as mice, and other things in propor- 
tion. 

I cast my eyes beyond the Potomac into Virginia, and saw what 
was once the ancestral home of Gen. R. E. Lee, Commander-in- 
chief of the Southern Army. Confiscated to the United States 
Government, Arlington Heights is now a Cemetery for the dead of 
the Union Army. 

Here I saw a little girl, who said she lived in Wisconsin, and 
who was clamoring to go higher in the dome than visitors were al- 
lowed to go, which height she had already attained. She was not 
more than eight or nine years of age. 

But here I am, on the top of the dome, my dizzy-headed friend 
somewhere below, I know not where. The sun is fast sinking in 
the West, and we intended to go to the Navy Yard yet before 
tea, so I must get down; nor do I choose the shorter method, that 
of throwing myself over the railing and falling on the roof below, 
as a gentleman did a few years ago, for, though expeditious. 



E A S T \V A n D u o ! 13 



I think it would not be pleasant — especially to ray friends. 

I am now more than two hundred feet from the ground, and an 
the building is on a hill ninety feet high, I have a very good view, 
and am exceedingly loth to leave it. Ofif to the West I see the 
"Smithsonian Institution," with its nine towers, the highest of 
which reaches an altitude of about one hundred and fifty feet. 

The building is constructed of freestone, and is fire-proof. It 
has been built and perpetuated at a cost of $450,000, which is 
the accumulated interest on a bequest left for this purpose by 
James Smithson, Esq. It is 447 feet long and IGO feet wide, and 
is used as a kind of Scientific Museum, more especially for the 
curiosities of Natural History. We were iuformed that the most 
rare specimens had been taken to the Centennial Exhibition at 
Philadelphia, and that we could spend our brief time in the city 
to better advantage than in visiting it. 

But I must retrace my steps down those tedious winding stairs. 
I found my friend safe, far below, and we went our weary way, 
wondering what great thing we should see next. 

We pass around the Northern portico of the Capitol, where 
we find another beautiful and massive bronze door, whose panels 
are ornamented with scenes representing events in the Revolu- 
tionary War. This door opens into a vestibule, the grandeur of 
which must be seen to be appreciated. We pass on to the door 
of the Senate Chamber, but find, from a printed notice there, that 
we cannot be admitted, so we turn back to the Eastern staircase 
and seek the galleries. At the foot of these stairs, in a niche, 
stands a statue of Franklin, by Hiram Po^vers. and on the Eastern 
wall is an immense and gorgeous punting of Perry's Victory. 
This picture cost §25,000. It is best seen from the balustrade at 
the head of the stairs. 

The Supreme Court Room is very grand, and the Hall of the 
House of Representatives has its corridors and staircases deco- 
rated with paintings and statuary, equally grand with those of 
the Senate Chamber, but I cannot now place any of thera. I 
recollect seeing a fine, large, equestrian portrait of Gen. Scott, 
also another largo painting, entitled "Westward Ho!" 

But we must leave the Capitol, noticing as we go out that 
the Hall of the Lil)rary of Congress occupies the Western part 
of the building. We would be obHged to tarry a day for this 
alone, if we undertook to look over it, so we do not go in at all. 



u 



EASTWARD HO 



From the Capitol we went to the Navy Yai'd. This contains 
some twenty-seven acres; the entrance is through a gateway of 
stone, over which are small ball-ancl-cannon eaibelhshments, 
while in the center of the arch an eagle is represented as resting 
on an anclior. We found that it was so late in the afternoon that 
the shops and ship-houses were all closed. There are two ship- 
houses, a foundry and copper works, but we had to content our- 
selves with viewing the large captured guns, the solid shot and 
shell of all shapes and sizes, and the gunboats at anchor on the 
river, so we soon retired, as there was not much of interest to be 
seen after the shops were closed. 

Just at the foot of the Capitol Hill, on the West, is the Botanic- 
al Garden, which is free to all and open daily. In the summei^^ 
the main walks are lined with hardy plants, some of them of rare 
species, but the greatest; curiosities are to be seen in the con- 
servatories. 

The main conservatory is a model of the Capitol, which towers 
above it. It has the same central dome, with a wing on either 
side. All the conservatories are heated by hot water, and the 
heat is often so intense as to be decidedly disagreeable to visitors. 

Here we find the Date Palm of Scripture, also the Royal Rat- 
tan and Sago, of China and Japan, Panama Hat, Oil, Wine, Su- 
gar and Cradle Palms, also the Bread-fruit tree, Candle-nut tree, 
India Rubber or Caoutchouc tree, and hosts of others worthy of 
notice; but the catalogue would not be likely to interest you. 

From here we took a street car up Pennsylvania Avenue to Sev- 
enth street, where we tqok the Seventh street cars to O street, 
which brought us within two squares of the house that was to 
be our home in Washington. 

After tea we played a game or two of Croquet, having for jQur 
partners two young ladies residing with my cousin. When it be- 
gan to grow too dark to play, we went down into the city again. 
There we saw a grand display of fire-works. Two military com- 
panies, the Washington Light Infantry and the Capitol Guards, 
were just leaving the city to be at Philadelphia on the Fourth, and 
they literally "walked through fire" as they marched up Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue. Roman candles sent their balls of fire close to the 
heads of the men, while, directed from cither side of the street, 
in the air, hissed and whirred the flashing rockets, exploding high 
in the air with their many colored lights. Heavy explosions, re- 



EAST w A n n no! 15 



sembling the reports of cannon in sound, were continually roaring, 
just at the edge of the sidewalks, hut I was unable to dotoriniue 
from what these explosions proceeded. But the pageant passed on, 
and we were left eomixiratively alone. Then we wended our way 
to the house of our host, where wo all sat upon the steps and 
on chairs on the sidewalk, waiting for the temperature to become 
more moderate, so that we might gain some rest. You need not 
think that we would be noticed on this account, for this seemed 
to be the rule in the city. Looking down the street, you could 
see, by the gas-light, that there was a group at each door-step. 

On Sabbath morning we concluded to go to the Rev. Dr. New- 
man's Methodist Church, where the President is a regular attend- 
ant. As we neared the church the chimes began to ring. It was 
a solemn sound; the sacred tunes pealing forth from the tower 
were audible for a great distance, and it seemed to me that the 
worshippers would reach their destination in a very devotional 
mood, if they walked to the music of the chimes. I can't say that 
I did, howevor, for I was going to see the President. 

We were shown to seats well in front. The house was so crowd- 
ed that we were seated on camp-chairs at one side of the aisle. (Jn 
looking for the name on tlie pew opposite me, I saw engraved uj)- 
on it, the word l^resident, but I waited in vain for the appearance 
of the occnpint, for the President did not attend church that day. 

The speaker made what I called a Fourth of July oration. It 
was at least more like tliat than a sermon, that i-, tlie common 
idea of a sermon; but he said that he had been instructed by the 
Bishop to preach such a sermon, and, indeed, I was very well 
pleased witli it, for I am inclined to think that our preachers 
preach too much doctrine, and do not often ( nougli make practical 
applications of it. 

In the evening, when it beg*n to grow cooler, w.-* went .^ut, 
guided by the young ladies before mentioned, t > visit the 
Georgetown Cemetery. Rock Creek, taking its name from its 
rocky bed, forms the boundary line between the two cities. 

Within the Cemetery', we wandered around on the shady 
avenues until the ringing of the sunset bell warned us tliat it was 
time for the closing of the gates, and we were compelled to retire. 

It is pleasant and solemn, thus to wander around throu:;h the 
avenues of a "City of the Dead." This is esnscially the case where 
we see the graves of strangers only; then the sorrow will not bo 



16 EASTWARDHO! 



too deep for solemn pleasure. When I look thus upon the mar- 
ble ornaments which man has placed upon the graves of friends, 
I think with Bryant, that 

"The hills. 
Rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun — the vales. 
Stretching in pensive ciuietness between, — 
The venerable woods, — rivers that move 
In majesty, and the complaining brooks 
That make the meadows green; and poured round all. 
Old ocean's gray and melancholy waste, — 
Are but the solemn decorations all 
Of the great tomb of man." 

After leaving the Cemetery we walked on round the streets of 
Georgetown, that ancient city, until we came to the Reservoir, 
which supplies the City of Washington with water, but this was 
surrounded by a high, iron fence, and all the gates were locked, so 
we could not see within the walls, which crown the summit of a 
high hill. 

As twilight began to deepen, we took a street-car for Washing- 
ton, and in about a half an hour, we reached our lodging place. 
Here we found Mr. B., Reporter of the Senate Investigating Com- 
mittee, who had just returned from Mississippi, where he had 
been with the Committee; and again we sat upon the steps until 
a late hour, listening to the two reporters, discussing their ad- 
ventures in the South, and giving their opinions as to the differ- 
ent cases investigated. They seemed to be fully agreed as to the 
state of the South, and as I have already given the opinion of 
one, it is not necessary to refer to that point again. So we spent 
our last evening in Washington. 

On Monday morning we had some discussion as to our pro- 
gramme for the day. We very much wished to go down the river 
to Mt. Vernon to visit the tomb of Washington, but, on the other 
hand, we had intended to start for Philadelphia at noon, so that 
we might arrive there before nightfall, and further, there was 
much in the city that we had a desire to see, so we decided to re- 
main there during the forenoon. Long before business hours we 
were up in the vicinity of the White House. We went around to 
the west side of the grounds and made an effort to get into the 
Conservatory, but we only got into a wood-house in the basement, 
so we went farther west, where a man was sprinkling flowers, and 
inquired if wo could be admitted, but we were politely repulsed. 



EASTWARD H (J I 17 

Givin<> up the White House, for the time being, we made a raid 
on the New Stata Department. This buildinf;; is on the square 
west of tlie "White House, fron'inj^f south. In connection with 
this, fronting toward the "White House, is the buiUling designed 
for the War and Navy Departments, in process of erection. The 
estimated cost of the entire buikling is !^5,000,000, and when com- 
pleted, it will be the finest of the public buildings. It will be fire- 
proof, being built of iron and roofed with slate. Some of the 
large stones in the lloors of the porticoes weigh twenty tons. 
There was not much to be seen here, and as we were very tired of 
walking, we went to an elevator, to be taken up to the upper stories, 
but the man in cliarge seemed to think that we were strangers, 
»nd informed us thit the elevator was for the clerks of the De- 
partment, exclu:^ive]y, at Ihat time in the morning, so we toiled 
up the marble stiir.MSi to the second story. In one room here 
we saw the portraits of all the Secretaries of State, from Thomas 
Jefferson, who was appointed by Washington, to Hamilton Fish, 
the present incumbent, twenty seven in all. 

After resting here awhile, we went to the War Department, 
which, at present, occupies an old, dilapidated building west of the 
White House. As there was not much to be seen here, except 
cleiks sitting at their desks, we went our way, kindly directed by 
one of the clerks, to the flag room, which was just across the 
street to the west. Here, in one compartment, we saw all the 
flags captured from the Rebels during the war; in another, many 
of the flags borne by regiments in the Union Army. 

From there we went to the Museum of the War Department, 
where we saw everything in the way of warlike implements, either 
the original or in model, from the Gatling Gnn to the Indian 
bow and arrow; jn-ojectiles of all kinds were displayed; here were 
flags, swords and pistols: war-horses in harness, with full equip- 
ments for flying artillery, and everywhere these words stared us 
in the face: "Jf(H)i/ (n-fick.f nf interest hare I>ee)i taken /'mm tfii'< 
case to the (rorermneut Build'ni'i, Centenniit/ Exhihition." 

Near one end of the hall was a small bronze statue of General 
McPherson, and, occupying one entire end of the room, was a 
large painting, giving a life-size, equestrian portrait of each of the 
most distinguished Generals of the Union Array. Grant occupies 
the center, and ofl" on cither flank we see the representations of 
such men as Sherman, Sheridan, Custer. Canby, Thomas, Hooker, 



18 



EASTWARD HO 



Meade, Terry, Rosecrans, Burnsicle, Banks, Kilpatrick,_and others 
of less note. 

But our time is short, so we hurry away. Passing through 
the Wliite House, we were informed that the President was en- 
gaged with the Assistant Secretary of State, and could not be 
seen, so we pass on several squares to the east and south, to the Ag- 
ricultural Department. This building is of brick, with brown- 
stone base, cornice and ornaments. The chief places of interest 
here are the Museum and the Plant Houses. Of the latter, the 
main structure is over three hundred feet long, and there are sev- 
eral wings. 

As we have already noticed the Botanical Garden, anything we 
might say here would be a mere repetition, but I wds tempted to 
pluck some of the luscious grapes, clusters of which hung in easy 
reach, from the low arbor — grapes which would rival those borne 
from Eshcol by the Isriielitish spies, and I presume, had it not been 
for the presence of attendants, the temptation would have over- 
come my natural respect for the laws of property. 

In the Museum were models of fruit, colored so true to nature 
that one longed to take a slice; here, too, were specimens of all 
kinds of Agricultural products, native and foreign. Thei'e were 
cornstalks so long, and ears of corn so large, that you would 
scarcely believe it if I- were to tell you their size; the same might 
be said of wheat. Squashes, potatoes and various edible roots 
were represented; fowls and all kinds of game birds were there, 
stuffed skins only, but looking natural as life. There were speci- 
mens of all kinds of wood, rocks and minerals. We longed for a 
day to spend there, but had to be content with an hour, and then 
tore ourselves away with only a glance at the Entomologist's col- 
lection of insects, and without at all visiting the Nursery and Ex- 
perimental Gardtns, occupying several acres in the rear of the 
building. 

From the Department of Agriculture we went back to the White 
House, to make a final effort to see the President. As this was 
the fifth time I had been there for that purpose, you may think 
that I was going to a great deal of trouble. To disabuse yoiir 
minds on that score, I would say, that the attendants always told 
me when I would be the most likely to see the President, and I 
never went at the hour named, but suited my own convenience; 
hence my many calls. Just as we reached the door of the office 



E A S T W A R D H O ! 19 



it was closed, and no more visitors were admitted. They were 
not so quick, however, as to pj-event mo from j^ettinpf a ^'limpse of 
the man who has been the best President that onr Nation has had 
since the days of Jackson, who, indeed, was better versed in state- 
craft than the present incumbent, but on many other points he 
must yiehl the palm to the younger Soldier-President, wlio could 
forget all party ties in the deeper allegiance due to his mother 
country. One glance at his physiognomy satisfied me that he was 
a man that 

"If he will, he i()7/, you may (iepcnd on'l. 
And if he won't, he won't, and there's an end on't." 

Before leaving the city, I must say something in reference to 
the arrangement of the streets. They run North and South, East 
and AVest, and beside these there are sevei-al Avenues, running 
from N. E. to S. W. and from S. E. to N. W. The Avenues are 
named from the dift'erent States in the Union. The streets run- 
ning North and South are numbered, while those running East 
and West are lettered in alphabetical order. Where there is a 
crossing of two streots and two Avenues, there is generally a 
square or circle of two, three, five or seven acres, ornamented by 
a statue, fountain, pirk, with seats, vase?, or something of that na- 
ture. At the crossing of 13th and P streets and Rhode Island 
Avenue, is a circle, containing a magnificent equestrian statue of 
Gen. Scott, in bronza. He holds the reins in his left hand, and 
a pair of fi'-ild glasses in his right. He sits there, as if survey- 
ing the field of battle. 

Lincoln Square is to be honored with a statue of President Lin- 
coln. Washington Circle contains an equestrian st itue of Wash- 
ington, his wai'-steed recoiling, as if from the flash of guns 
and the din of battle. 

We never saw a city in which cleanliness was so predominant as 
in Washington. The streets, more especially the Avenues, are 
very wide, which, with the Circles, Parks and Sfpiares before- 
mentioned, give the city an appearance of liberality. Tlie streets, 
many of them, are paved with asphaltum, so that the vehicles pass 
ing over tliem make but little noise. Others are paved with wood 
(some in square blocks, others in round,) stone and various ma- 
terials, but all as clean as floors, compared with any other city 
which we ever saw. 

You may wonder that I devote so much space to Washington, 




ULYSSES S. GRANT, LATK PIIESIDKXT OF THE U. STATES. 



E A S T W A It n II o ! 21 



but I would like to have even more. The Centennial Exhibition 
IS a thing of a day, not without its interest, of course, but every 
American citizen should be proud of his Capital City, as he may 
well be. I feel safe in predicting that her glory will never depart 
from her; and you. ray readers, must go and see for yourselves, 
before you can realiz3 what, in my weak way, I have endeavored to 
delineate, and should you ever go there to see the glories of the 
city, you will exclaim with the Queen of Sheba: "Behold, the 
half has not been told me." 



CHAPTER III. 

WASHINGTON TO PHILADELPHIA— BALTIMOKE. 

At about one o'clock P. M. we left Washington for Philadelphia. 
There were ten coaches in the train, and in all these, not one seat 
was to be found unoccupietl. We were informed that there was an 
excursion train just in advance of us, with as many coaches, all 
bound for the Centennial City. 

We were on the Philadelphia, Wilmington & Baltimore Pail- 
road, and going at a good rate of speed, considering the length of 
the train. We soon reached Baltimore, tlie Monumental City, 
without accident. 

This is no mean city, ranking sixth among the cities of the 
United States. It is situated on a basin or branch of the Pataps- 
CO river. It has been one hundred and fifty three years since the 
lirst house was built on the site of the present city. The town 
was originally laid out on the 12th of January, 1730, and the 
boundaries remained unchanged until 1745. when Jones' Town, or 
Jonas' Town, containing ten acres, lying east <if BaHimorc. from 
which it was separated by a great marsh, through which nKiiiidcr- 
ed Jones' Falls, was added. 

Notwithstanding the unfavorable location for a city — the uuub!i 



22 EASTWAEDHOl 



of Jones' Falls, girted by hills — the town soon began to make 
rapid advances in civilization and wealth. The first newspaper 
of Baltiinore commenced publication in August, 1773, and was 
called "The Maryland Journal and Advertiser." The motto — the 
newspapers of that day invariably had mottoes — was a couplet 
from Horace: 

'•Omne tulit punctum qui miscuit utile diilci, 
Loctoruin deluctaudo, pariterque moneudo." 

Which being translated, would read thus: 

"He carries every point who blends the useful with the agreeable, 
amusing his reader, while he instructs him." 

The streets of the older part of the city, now called "Old 
Town," were laid off without a very strict regard to tbe rules of 
geometry. Indeeed, it seems as though their cows acted as en- 
gineers, and their deviating j^aths had been taken as streets. 
Many of the houses still retain their primitive look, being built 
low, with narrow windows and gable roofs, and are now occupied 
by the poorer class of people, composed principally of foreigners and 
negroes, of which the latter seem to predominate. The newer 
portion, however, is more regularly laid out, the streets are wider, 
and the houses are generally larger and of a more modern and taste- 
ful architecture. 

The city has unusually good sewerage for one of its size, and is 
for the most part kept neat and clean, and has a fresh and cheer- 
ful appearance. There are some very fine suburban residences 
and cottages. Baltimore street (first called Long, afterward Mar- 
ket, and now Baltimore) is the most important, or rather the main 
street of the city. The largest and finest stores and business 
houses are on this street. Here are marble and iron fronts, five, 
six, seven and eight stories high, where business of all kinds is 
carried on. There are two street car tracks, but the street is en- 
tirely too narrow for the amount of business and transportation 
carried on, and there is frequently a "jam," and always a hurry, 
bustle and din. It seems to a stranger as though the people were 
trying to live a life-time, and crowd all its duties and business in- 
to one day. 

Charles street, running north and south, and at right angles 
with Baltimore, is about the next in importance. There is not so 
much business done on this street as on Baltimore, but it is more 
of a promenade street. Washington Monument — erected in com- 



EAST W A K D H O ! 23 



raeraoration of the illustrious Gen. George "Washington — stands at 
the intersection of Monument street with Charles. It is imloed a 
grand structure, and as one, coming up Charles from Baltimore 
street, catches a glimpse of its tall, majestic while column, 
through the trees, it inspires a feeling of wonder and admiration, 
and a deep reverence for the truly good and great man whom it 
commemorates. It stands at the junction of four small groves, 
parallelograms in shape, extending about twenty rods each way, 
along the middle of the streets, and enclosed by an iron picket 
fence. 

The monument is built of a coarse, inferior quality of marble, of 
a creamy white. The column is round, smooth and straight from 
the base to the balcon)% (about two hundred feet) and stands on a 
square base, (about twelve feet in height) with an entrance front- 
ing each grove. Surmounting the column, about ten feet above 
the balcony, is a marble statue, sixteen feet high, representing 
Washington in military uniform. The balcony is reached by a 
winding stair within the column. A visit to Baltimore is not con- 
sidered complete without ascending the monument. From its 
balcony a fine view of the city is obtained, or at least a fine view 
of steeples, domes, chimneys, and acres of house tops, and on a 
clear day, looking south across the Basin, witli its forests of 
masts, we see Locust Point, with its smoking foundries. Farther 
on, and where the Basin or North-west Branch connects with the 
Main Branch of the Patapsco, are seen the walls and Hag of Fort 
McHenry, and still farther south may be seen Fort Carroll and 
the waters of Chesapeake Bay. The ascent and descent of the 
monument is no easy task, and it requires a person of unusual 
physical strength and a steady head to ascend without stopping 
once, at least. 

There is a monument (I forget the location) called the Battle 
Monument, erected in commemoration of the battle fought at 
North Point, between the British and Americans, on the I'ith of 
September, 1814, in which the Americans lost one hundred and 
three, in killed and wounded, many of whom were citizens of Bal- 
timore. This monument is of solid marble. The base is four feet 
square, by eight in heiglit, and the cap or column is twelve feet 
high. 

On Harford Avenue is another monument, that is worthy of 
mention. This was erected to the memory and honor of two daring 



24 E A S T W A E D H O 



young men named Wells and McComis, who sacrificed their lives 
to save the city from the merciless hands of the British, and who 
well and truly deserve this honor and commendation given them 
by the citizens of Baltimore. 

These two young men (as the story runs) at early dawn on the 
12th of September, 1814, when the British army of sis thousand 
men, with Gen. Ross as their commander, were about to advance 
on the cit}', after bidding their friends a last adieu, went some 
distance without the limits of the city and concealed themselves in' 
a cedar tree, on the route by which they supposed Ross would 
approach, and waited until the army, with Gen. Ross riding at 
their front, came within range, when they fii'ed and killed him. 
The bodies of Wells and McComis were in turn riddled with bul- 
lets, but the British were so discouraged by the loss of their no- 
ble leader, that on the 13th they abandoned the enterprise, which 
had cost them so dear. 

In connection with the land forces of the British was a fleet un- 
der Admiral Cochrane, which attempted the reduction of Fort Mc- 
Henry, and it was here, on the night of the 12ch, that Francis 
S. Key composed his celebrated song, "The Star-Spangled Ban- 
ner." By the light of 

"the rockot's red glare, 
And bomb.* l)iirstiug in air," 

he sometimes caught a glimpse of the beloved banner of his native 
land, from his place of confinement on a British ship. 

Broadway street, running north and south, is, perhaps, the most 
beautiful street. It is very wide, and is adorned with trees, grass- 
plats and flowers, along the middle, thus forming a miniature 
park for the whole length of the street. 

Druid Hill, the largest Park, is almost directly north of the 
city. It is said to contain eleven hundred acres. The greater 
portion is woodland, with pleasant walks and drives meandering 
through it. In the Park is a beautiful lake, with its row-boats and 
bathing-houses, and there are several nice, cool springs. Silver 
Spring, designed and erected by Robinson, is the largest and most 
noted. 

Standing on an elevation, near the edge of a cleared spot, is a 
house called "The Mansion." Its situation gives it a picturesque 
appearance, and its wide, cool verandas afford a pleasant resting- 
place for the weary promenader. Near the Mansion are several 



E A S T W A H I) U O ! 25 



fountains, the basins of which are alive with gold and silver fish, 
that leap almost out of tlie water to receive the crumbs. There 
are also some beautiful vases with flowers, and some statuary. 

The Park is reached by street-cars, and during the hot summer 
days, many persons leave the heated and noisy city, to catch a 
breath of fresh air and a few hours' recreation by a pleasant walk 
or drive through the Park. 

Patterson Park is not so large as Druid Hill, but is better im- 
proved and more beautiful. 

The most important Squares of the city are. Public, Franklin 
and Lafayette. They are beautifully ornamented with trees, foun- 
tains and flowers. 

The two largest Cemeteries are Baltimore and Green Mount. 
The latter is the largest, and the visitor is struck with surprise on 
entering a "City of the Dead," at the vast number of tomb- 
stones — X wilderness of monuments. It is enclosed by. an iron 
fence. The main entrance — on the south side — is an arch, in 
which are gates, and on either side of the arch is a smill house, 
occupied, I suppose, by the sexton, or keeper. The enclosure 
is kept in very neat order. 

Baltimore is not behind her sister cities in the number and mag- 
nificence of her churches, and it seems to a stranger visitor, as 
though a spirit of rivalry existed among the various denomina- 
tions in regard to elegance and magnificence of their churches. 
The same, too, might be said of the Theaters and Opera Houses. 

The City Hall, said to be the finest building of the kind in the 
United States, occupies one whole squire. It is built of tine, 
white m irble; has a large dome, and is of a very superior artistic 
and beautiful design, for so large a structure. The interior is fit- 
ted up with offices, and occupied by the various city officers. 

The Oyster trade of Baltimore is immense, perhaps greater than 
that of any other city in the world, and affords employment for a 
great number of men during the oyster season, which continues 
from September until May. The Chesapeake Bay is one of Balti- 
more's greatest sources of wealth. 

Commerce and Manufactures also help to employ the labor and 
capital of the city, and both seem to be extensively carried on. 

Many ocean steamers and sailing vessels are employed in bring- 
ing to her wharves the mci'chandise from foreign countries, and 



26 E A S T W A R D H O 



exporting in turn, large quantities of wheat, corn and other pro- 
ducts, from this most prolific Republic. 

In this city the first blood was shed in the late war. The first 
Northern regiment of volunteers, en route for Washington, were 
attacked by a furious Secession mob, on the streets, and the 
troops were compelled to lire in self-defense. 

We Western people were somewhat surprised to see them hitch 
horses to the cars, but they did it nevertheless They put eight 
horses to each car, all in single file, and away we went through 
the streets of the city, as fast as the horses could trot. As we 
neared a crossing the driver would blow a long, shrill blast on his- 
horn, to let the people know that he was coming, that they might 
have the way clear. 

W^e passed along near the wharves, on an arm of the Chesa- 
peake Bay. After reaching the other depot, we were soon on our 
way to the north-east, keeping pretty close to the shores of the 
Chesapeake, often ci'ossing extensive arms of the Bay on trestle- 
work. Havre de Grace is a considerable town, near the head of the 
Bay. Here we turaecl oft' move to the east, and about five o'clock 
P. M. arrived at Wilmington, a considerable city in northern Del- 
aware, near Delaware Bay, where we stopped for supper. Thence 
up the Delawai-e River, through Chester and other places of les» 
note, until we reached Gray's Ferry, where the train was divided,, 
some cars going on across the Schuylkill River into southern Phil- 
adelphia, while others were taken to the Centennial Depot, on 
Elm Avenue. We took the latter train, as wc intended to lodge 
at the Atlas Hotel, just opposite the northwest entrance to the 
Centennial Grounds. 
^I We got our first view of the Centennial Buildings as we walked 
up Elm Avenue in the twilight. We walked what seemed to us- 
an interminable distance, before we arrived at the Hotel, and when 
we got there we found that our rooms had not been reserved for 
us, as we had ordered. However, we had been thoughtful enough 
to take with us the return registered-letter receipts of the letter 
in which we had sent them the money. On showing them this it 
was pronounced genuine, and we were shown to rooms which we 
claimed as long as we pleased, for they had nothing but our word 
as to the amount enclosed: but, of course, we claimed no more 
than we had paid for. 

I mention this incident, because I think it will teach two lessons^ 



EASTWARD HO 



first, never destroy registered-letter receipts: and second, nfevfr 
send money in advance to secure rooms at a hotel. 

Though we were shown to our rooms, we did not retire immedi 
ateh-, and it was soon so near midnight that we concluded to wait 
for the dawning of a new century in our Nation's existence. As the 
hour approached, we sauntered out, expecting, in our ignorance of 
the programme, to see sometliing. ^AXe ruu/'f see something of tbe 
outline of the Main Building and Machinery Hall, in the light of 
the moon, now almost full, but beyond the hoarse whistle of the 
steam-engine at Machinery Hall, and the report of a few guns, we 
heard and saw nothing worthy of note. Indeed, the city seemed 
very (juiety and as we afterward learned, everybody in the city was 
crowded down near Independence Hall, watching till the hands of 
the clock on the steeple should point to twelve. 

At that time the new bell rang out a joyous peal, and was 
responded to by other bells, cannons, shells, rockets, drums, pis- 
tols, steam-whistles, and human voices, and through all the con- 
fusion, a procession seven miles in length marched, and it is esti- 
mated that fully one million people viewed this grand pageant. 
But we were nearly seven miles away, and we had been too busy 
in Washington to look at the papers, so we knew nothing of all this 
till long afterward. 

It was nearly three o clock when we at last sought our rooms, 
and very tired we were, with our hot forenoon in Washington, and 
our hot afternoon on tbe train, and our hot half a-night in the 
.streets of Philadelphia. 



28 EASTWAEDHO! 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE CENTENNIAL FOURTH AT PHILADELPHIA. 

"Let music swell the breeze, 
And ring from all the treesi, 

Sweet Freedom's soug ! 
Let mortal tongues awake. 
Let all that breathes partake, 
Let rocks their silence bioak— 

The sound prolong."— [America. 

Having- gained a little rest, we took a street-car for the city, 
early in the morning, wishing to get to Independence Hall in time 
to see the grand military procession. Already the sun began to 
give us warning of what he had in store for us when he should 
reach the full zenith of his power. 

We stopped at the Colonnade Hotel, to see Mr. M., Private Sec- 
retary to Gen. Butler. Mr. M. was formerly a chum of mine at 
school, and at another time a pupil under me. The clerk told us 
that he had just gone out. We saw the General, and recognized him 
from engravings we had seen. I marched boldly up to h?m and in- 
quired for his Secretary. I was not very well pleased with my 
first effort to introduce myself to a great man. He was a gruff old 
fellow, and seemed scarcely willing to answer a civil question. He 
did not know where Mr. M. was; supposed he was out in town 
some place; so we left him. I felt satisfied that he did not know 
to whom he was talking, and I am "sure he did not think how 
Abraham entertained angels unawares. 

We went down Chestnut street, one square farther to Broad, as 
the procession was to come up Broad and file down Chestnut tow- 
ards Independence Hall. We stood there on the west side of 
Broad, north of Chestnut, until our umbrellas seemed to emit heat 
like a red-hot stove, and we were soon hemmed in on every side, 
so we had no choice but to stay. 

But here come the soldiers, with their music, flags, banners and 
uniforms, such as our "boys in blue" seldom saw during the late 
war. These uniforms were of all colors, blue and gray predomin- 
ating; but there were red, green and white. Some were uniformed 



EASTWARD H () ! 



29 



ia white coats and blue pants, others in red coats and white pants. 
There were ten thonsand men in line, some from Magsachusetts, 
some from South Carolina, and porae from all parts of the Union. 
The West Point Cadets were there, alfo a detachment from the 
U. S. Regular Arm}-, and the Spanish Rovid Engineers. 

The procession was an hour and thirty minutes in passing, and 
that is about all we saw of the celebration. The streets leading 
to Independence Square were all so crowded that we could not 
make our way with any comfort, and we concluded that, if the 
streets were so crowded, we did not ore to be in the Square. 
The exercises at the Square were about as follows: 
Grand Overture, by an oichestra of eighty pieces. This was 
arranged from the natiouil air, "H ul Oolumbin," by Geo. Bris- 
tow. Address, by Gen. Josepli II. Hawlcy, President of the U. S. 
Centennial Commission, who spoke as follow!-: 




GEN. JOSEPH n. HAWl.KY. 



'•Fellow-Citizens, and Friends, of all N.itionsr- -One hundred 
years ago the Republic was proc.laimed on this spot, and we have 
come together to celebrate to-day, by pcareful and simple obsorv- 



30 EASTWARD HO 



ances, our wonder, our pride and our gratitude. These pres- 
ences to-day prove the good-will existing among all nations. 

"To the strangers among us, a thousand welcomes! To the 
land we love, liberty, peace, justice, prosperity, and the blessing of 
God to all time I 

"By direction of the Commission, I have the honor to an- 
nounce as the presiding officer of the day, Hon. Thomas W. Ferry, 
Vice-President of the United States.' 

Hon. Thomas W. Ferry spoke as follows: 

"Citizens of our Centennial: The regretful absence of the 
President of the United States casts on me the honor of presiding 
on this eventful occasion. 

"Much as I value the official distinction, I prize much more 
the fact that severally we hold, and successfully maintain the right 
to the prouder title of American citizen. It ranks all others. It 
makes office, unmakes officers,* and creates States. One hundred 
years ago, in yonder historical structure, heroic statesmen sat, 
and gravely chose between royal rule and popular sovereignty. In- 
spired with the spirit which animated the Roman sage who, in the 
midst of Mars Hill, declared that of one blood were made all na- 
tions of men, those Continental sages echoed in the midst of Inde- 
pendence Hall their immortal declaration, that all men are created 
free and equal. [Loud cheers.] Appealing to the God of jus- 
tice and of battle for the rectitude and firmness of their purpose? 
they pledged their lives, their fortunes, and sacred honor to the 
abstract principle of the freedom and equality of the human race 

"To day, in this rounding hour of a centurj', appealing to the 
same God of justice and of peace, we praise Him for, and pledge 
our lives, our fortunes, and our sacred honor to maintain the spirit 
of, that declaration now made universal by the fundamental law of 
the land. We, the people of the United States, in this Centennial 
memorial, pay double tribute to the Most High — one of grateful 
acknowledgment of the fulfilled pledge of our fathers to over- 
throw Royalism, and the other of joyful assurance of the fulfilling 
pledge of their sons to uphold Republicanism. 

"The great Powers of the earth honor the spirit of American 
fidelity to the cause of human freedom, by the exhibition of their 
wares and the presence of their titled peers, to grace and dignify 
the world's homage, paid to the Centennial genius of Ameri- 
can liberty. 



E A. S T W A U I) no! 31 



"Three millions of people grown to forty-three millions; ami 
thirteen colonies enlarged to a nation of thirty seven States, with 
the thirty-eighth, tho Centennial State, for.sakinjf eight territories, 
and on the threshold of the Union, abiding executive admission: 
these attest the forecast and the majesty of the Declaration of 
1770. 

"It was nothing short of the utterance of the sovereignty of man- 
liood and the worth of American citizenship. 

"Its force is fast supplanting the assumption of the divine right of 
kings, by virtue of the supreme law of the nation, that the people 
alone hold the sole power to rule. Nations succeed each other in fol 
lowing the example of this Republic, and the force of American in- 
stitutions bids fair to bring about a general reversal of the source 
of political power. 

"When that period shall come, Great Britain, so magnanimous 
in presence of this auspicious ei'a, will then, if not before, 
praise the events when American Independence was won under 
"Washington, and when freedom and ecjuality of races were achieved 
under Lincoln and Grant. [Long continued cheering.] Now, 
citizen.';, you will join reverently in prayer, which will be oifered 
by the ecclesiastical successor of the tir.st Chaplain of the Conti- 
nental Congress." 

Right Rev. Bishop Stevens tiien oft'ered an appropriate prayer. 

Singing of the hymn : "Welcome to all Nations," by a chorus of 
five hundred trained voices, accompanied by the orchestra. Tho 
words were written expressly for this occasion by Dr. Oliver 
Wendell Holmes. 

I. 

Mriglit "HI the 1)1111 IK r.s ot lily iiml rfi.«i', 

1,1), the last 81111 ol our ciMiUiry ."ft."- ! 
Wrfatlit- Ilio Mark raniion Ih.-it stohIs on our f>)c:«. 

All but luT frii'iKlfliip tin- Nation lorjruts : 

All but lu-r IrieiKls and I heir wclcouu- for;;i'ts '. 
These arc around licr : But wlu-ri' ore lu-r toes ' 

I,o, wliilc tlic sun of her eontury sets, 
I'eaee with her j,'arlaii(ls ol lily and rose '. 

II. 
Welcome : a sl:r)iit like the war-Irunipel swell, 

Wakes the wild eelioes that slumber around '. 
Welcome '. it quivers from IJhrrly's bell : 

Welcome: the walls ol her temple resound: 

Hark : the irray walls of her temple n-sound : 
Ka<lc the far voice.-* o'er hill-side and dell ; 

Welcome: still whisper the echiM's around ; 
Weic )me : still trembles on Liberty^ l)ell : 



32 E A S T W A n D H O 



III. 

Tlii'oiiuH ot tlie CIoDtincnt ! Isles of the Sea ! 

Yours are the garlands of peace wo entwine; 
Welcome, once more, to the land of the free. 

Shadowed alike by the palm and the pine ! 

Softly they murmur, the palm and the pine ; 
"Hushed is our strife, in the land of the free ;" 

Over your children their branches entwine, 
Thrones of the Continent ! Isles of the Sea! 

Keading of the Original Declaration of Independence, by 
Richard Henry Lee, grandson of the man who introduced the 
celebrated resolution in Congress in 1776. 

A hymn for the Centennial of American Independence, a con- 
tribution from Dom Pedro II., Emperor of Brazil, composed by 
A. Carlos Gomez, at the request of the Emperor. This piece was 
so well received that it was repeated. 

The National Ode, composed and read by Bayard Taylor, the 
celebrated author and poet. This production was in every way 
worthy of the occasion, but it is so long, that I cannot repro- 
duce it here. 

Our National Banner, a triumphal march, with a chorus, words 
by Dexter Smith, of Mass., music by Sir Julius Benedict, of Eng- 
land. The words were as follows : 

I. 

O'ei' tlie high and o'er the lowly, 
Floats that banner bright and holy. 

In the rays of Freedom's sun ; 
In the Nation's heart imbedded, 
0'<!r our Union newly wedded, 

One in all, and all in one. 

II. 
Let the banner wave forever, 
May its lustrous stars fade never, 

Till the stars shall pale on high ; 
While thtTR's Kight the Wrong defeating, 
While there's hope in true hearts beating, 

Truth and Freedom shall not die. 

III. 
As it lloated long before us, 
He it ever float iug o'er us, 

O'er our land from shore to shore ; 
There are freemen yet to wave it, 
Millions, who would die to save it — 

Wave it, save it, evermore. 

Oration by W. M. Evaits, of New York, which occupied more 
than an hour in its delivery, so of course it is too long for my 



E V S T \V A R 1) H O I 33 

book. It was a studied eftbrt, from one af onr best orators, and- 
was very well received. 

The exercises were concluded by the sin«,nnfj;of the "( Hd Huiidretl 
Doxology. in which all were re(iuested to join, and wo suppose 
it is very seldom that the hymn has been sun^ liy a larger or 
more enthusiastic audience. 

Notwithstanding the immense crowd, the exercises passed ofi" 
very pleasantly to all concerned. 

A great many hard words were used in connection with the 
name of President Grant, on account of bis refusal to be present, 
but I excused him when I rememlfered how he was treated on 
Opening Day in May. 

Notwithstanding the heat, we wandered around a great deal that 
afternoon, even going into the Centennial Grounds for an hour or 
two, but our path was so devious during the two weeks that we 
were in the city, that I shall not attempt to follow it. It would, 
no doubt, cross itself many times, so I think it would be more in- 
teresting to jou to see the sifjhts, as we would have seen them had 
we known what there was to see, than to see them as ire saw them, 
merely as we liappened upon them. 

At night we went back to the Atlas Hotel. Here Mr. M . I'ri 
vate Secretary to Gen. Bntler, and his brother, called on u=:, but 
as it had the appearance of rain, they took an early departure, for 
they had some live or six miles to go. After our friends had gone 
we bad some splendid musii-, by one or two of the bands of the 
volunteer regiments which were stopping at the Hotel. Then a 
company of vocalists, with a small mclodeon and a base viol as ac- 
companiment, began to sing in the hall. On in(|niry we learnetl 
that they were the celebrated Hutchinson Family. They urged 
all to join with them, and they soon had a respectable chorus, re- 
spectable in size, at least, whatever might be said of its ability. 
They sang patriotic songs and such standard Sabbath School 
pieces as ••Shall we Gatlier at the River.'"' which are universally 
known. Among the patriotic songs were "Hiiil Columbia. " "Red. 
White and 1)1 ue.' "Star Spangled Ranner. and "The Old (u-anite 
State.' 

I suppose they must have been singing two hours, when a wvy 
pleasant looking young man, belonging to the Wa.shington Light 
Infantrv, began t<i call for "( )ld Hundred' with more vehemence 
than politeness. This hymn, from its name, was tlumght very ap 



34 E A S T W A R D H O ! 



propriate for a Centennial song. His call was disregardecl, and 
one of the ladies of the Hntcliinsons began to sing a "Woman's 
Rights" song as a solo. He did not like this, and hissed the lady. 
He was not more than five or six feet from her. She turned and 
looked him full in the face, and sang the verse in regard to what 
women could do for the cause of Temperance, had they the privi- 
lege. It seemed to be the prevalent opinion that the young man 
had been drinking, and the verse was so appropriate, and sung 
with so much expression, that the singer was interrupted by loud 
and continued applausei When the song was finished the mana- 
ger looked around and iunoceatly inquired for the young man who 
wanted "Old Hundred," but he did not show himself. He was 
fairly beaten, and had sense enough left to acknowledge it. 



CHAPTER V. 

her:: and there ox the exhibition grounds. 

"I'm staudiiig at tlio threshold, 

With pockets full of "tin," 
I'm waiting for tlu! drawing, 

The opening of the door — 
I'm waiting till the turnstile 

Shall gently take nie in," &c.— [Adapted. 

In accordance with the hint just dropped, I will now lay aside 
personality, and view the Centennial with the eye of imagination, 
yet there will be but little imagination about it, as I shall not 
speak of anything I did not see. 

Whatever disadvantages there were in stopping at the Atlas, 
there was, at least, this advantage, that we were convenient to 
the Exhibition. We had only to cross the street and go in, as 
it were, at the back door of the grounds. To day you may wan- 
der around with me over a part of the enclosure, get accustomed 
to direction and distances, and visit a few of the smaller buildings, 
of which there are more than one hundred on the ground, and each 



K A H T W A a I) H O ! 35 

one is worthy of notice; but I shall not weary yon with ii cata- 
logue, mentioning such only ns I think will \w likely to interest 
you. 

We pass in at the soutli west corner and turn to the right. Oil" 
to the left is the encampment of the West Point Cadets, and that 
of the detachment of Regulars previously mentioned. Following 
on down Fountain Avenue, we soon come to the (xlass Mannfac- 
torj', which interests every one. Here you can see them manu- 
facture everything that is made of glass, from the most beautiful 
toys to such articles of utility as goblets, lamps, fruit-dishes, kc. 
But we must pass on. 

A little way down the Avenue is the Sawmill, with all kinds of 
saws at work. Among them are circular and sash saws, siwing off 
thin slabs of granite, as well as those sawing in wood. Proceeding 
down the Avenue, we come to the Stove Works,where you can see all 
kinds of stoves, from the plainest to the finest, from the largest to 
the smallest, but there are many things more interesting than 
stoves, especially to a perspiring man, imder a July sun. 

Just across toward Machinery Hall, is the exhibition of heating 
apparatus, such as grates, ranges, registers, «.tc., but these were 
as uninteresting as the stoves, for the same reason. At the cross- 
ing of the Avenue of the Republic and Fountain Avenue, is the 
Fountain of tlio Catholic Total Abstinence Union, one of the finest 
fountains on the grounds. The central figure is a colossal statue 
of "Moses Smiting the Rock," fifteen feet high. This i.s surrounded 
by a large basin, at each of the four angles of which are statues 
nine feet high, representing Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, Arch- 
bishop Carroll, Theobald Mathew and Commodore Barry, respect- 
ively. This fountain was unveiled on the -llh, with ajipropriate 
ceremonies, having been constructed at a cost of ^5().()0(). 

Passing on down the Avemie, wo come to Lienard's Plans of 
States and Cities. First we see a plan of Switzerlan<l, then Jeru- 
salem, Italy, Najiles and Paris. In the States the forms of relief are 
shown distinctly, mountains standing out in proper proi>ortion •• 
In the cities all the inequalities of surface were shown, and to this 
were added models of all the houses, the models of the Piiblic 
Buildings being true representations. It would be instructive to 
study these plans carefully, but who can study anything carefully 
at the Centennial? Nobody, I take it, but newspaper reporters, 
who must write understandinglv about a ffw things. 



3G EAST W A 11 D HO 



Bnt I must not forget the Turkish Bazar, which we find just on 
the south side of the Avenue. This is one of the many places at 
which you can get all manner of trinkets, if you have plenty of 
money to throw away. This must not be confounded with the 
Turkish Cafe, just across i<he waj', where they sell very black look- 
ing coffee, and furnish music, both instrumental and vocal, to their 
customers. I presume it was good Turkish music, but, so far as 
my observation extended, Americans did not seem to appreciate 
it. A little farther on is the Newspaper Pavilion, where all the 
newspapers published in the United States are on file, and any one 
will be allowed to examine them on inquiry, but as we are out see- 
ing sights, we will let the home news wait for a few days. 

As we near the Belmont Avenue crossing, we see a restaurant 
with a French name, which means something about "The Three 
Brothers," I don't know exactly what. It is not dinner-time yet, 
so we will not go in. I recollect that one man said he supposed 
the reason why their charges were so high, was that each one of 
the "Three Brothers" made a separate charge, so that their cus- 
tomers had to pay three prices for everything they ordered! (Since 
the above was wx'itten I have found out that there was but o)ie of 
the '"Brothers" there, but the mystery concerning the charges re- 
mains unexplained.) 

Near the crossing before mentioned, is a monument of Colum- 
bus. He is represented in a standing posture, his right hand 
resting on a globe, and holding a chart in his left. Just across 
the Avenue from the restaui-ant and Newspaper Pavilion, is the 
U. S. Government Building. Around this building is a grand 
display of ordnance, among which is the turret of a monitor, with 
its armament of two fifteen-inch Rodman guns complete. On the 
eastern side of the building is the largest gun on the grounds. It 
is slung in chains, and is a ponderous affair. Around farther to 
the north is the steam Siren, or fog-horn, to be used instead of 
lights during fogs on the ocean. It is designed to make such a 
noise that old < )cean himself, with all his roaring, will not be able 
to drown it, and from the deafening sound that issues from the 
brazen throat of the Siren, I think it ought to be a success. 

Farther to the north, but still near the main Government 
Building, is the Government Hospital, where any one feeling un- 
well can obtain the best of medical aid, free of charge. On some 
of the hot days in Jul}', there were as many as forty, who had been 



E A S T W A l; II U O I 37 

overcome by the lieat, taken in and cared for here. Tlie Ji-ibora- 
tory is near this building. On the west side of the build- 
ing we see some of the Government fast mail cars, with 
the apparatus for taking on mail while the train is running 
•at full speed. We have now surrounded the Building, (if I 
may use the expression) and lind that it is the most pretentious of 
<ill except the four main buildings, but let us pass in. 

The first thing we see is the Centennial Post Office, which is 
uot very ditYerent from the City Post Offices that I have f-een, but 
near it is an Envelope machine, for gamming, folding and packing 
•envelopes. All that the attendant has to do is to jiaste the little 
istrips of paper around the bnnchcs of twenty-five. The envelopes 
made here were those known as the Centennial Envelopes. 

In the Ordnance Department we see — well, it would be easier to 
tell what we doii't see. As we get accustomed to what at first 
seemed confusion, we notice that the developement of our country 
in this line has been carefully brought out. Here stands a i)las- 
ter cast of a soldier, in the old Continental uniform of 1770. grasp- 
ing the old flintlock musket: there is another, labeled 1800, 
another 1815, another 1880, another 1845. still another'18(;(), and 
this not only of the private foot soldier, but of all the officers, and 
of all the different branches of the service. 

Here, too, are all kinds of small arms in stacks, and all kinds of 
warlike implements and materials. There, they are manufiict\ir. 
ing army rifles. Let us see. Here is a barrel in the rough: here 
they are drilling the hole: here they are shnping the barrel: here they 
are polishing it: and here, by a peculiar attachment to a lathe, 
"they are turning the stock into its proper shape: here they are 
iiolishing that. AVith so many hands, the gun is soon complete. 

But what are those ladies doing, just over there on the other 
Aisle.' Here is one cutting long strips of sheet copper into small 
scpiares; these are handed to the next la ly, who p:isse.« them 
through a small machine, I'educing them to a thimble shape. Ah, 
yes : they are to be metallic cartridges. Another machine makes 
the rims on them, and after passing through many hands they 
come out complete. Here, too, are all kinds of projectiles for 
heavy guns, and iron plates for the protection of ships. Many of 
these have been tested, and show deej) indentations. 

In the Naval department we see everything pertaining to ships. 
Here arc models of full-xigged shiji^. very laige, too. for models. 



38 E A 8 T AV A R D H O ! 



Those masts must be twenty-five or thirty feet in height. Here, 
too, we see the new torpedoes, which can be directed through 
the water by a person on the shore. 

Here are old bhinderbusses and mammoth wall-guns, one of 
which would be a heavy load for a man. Here are small moun- 
tain howitzers, which may be taken apirt and packed on the backs 
of mules and thus transported — guns, carriage wheels and all 
— and ammunition can be carried up a mountain path where no car- 
riage could go. But let us be gone. It seems to me that I smell 
blood, and I begin to feel as though I might seize some of the 
large poniards and begin to slay, just to try my skill. 

Ah, this will do better! Here are the minerals, precious stones 
and fossils. Here are gold, silver and lead ores, fiom California, 
Nevada and Colorado, and quartz crystals, having the appearance 
of rock salt. Here everything is of interest to the Geologist. 
Look at those petrifications. Here are the Asaphas Gigas, and 

Who is that, that slaps me on the back so familiarly.^ Well, 

I declare! If it isn't my old friend S., (I don't mean old in years) 
from Kansas. He is too much absorbed in Mineralogy to talk 
long. It has been four years since I last saw him. Then he took 
Greeley's advice and "went West." We all thought he was doing 
well there, but instead of waiting to "grow up with the country," 
he has taken the lead. For two years he superintended the 
schools of a thriving young city in Kansas, then he resigned to 
accept the position of Professor of Natural Sciences in the State 
Normal School at Concordia, Kan., and now he tells me that he 
has resigned, that he may take charge of the Normal Department 
of the State University. 

Well, I fdar we cannot study Geology much, with the mercury 
at 98 degrees in the shade, so we will look farther. 

Here are the relics of an ancient nation. That is a little better. 
Here are models of some of their dwellings. They built of stone, 
then, rude houses, of course. Here is some of their pottery; here 
are their stone implements, such as hammers, hatchets, axes, 
pestle-!, knives, dart and arrow-heads, and many other things. 
What, an Idol.^ Now the returned missionaries can interest me 
no more with their little "vest-pocket edition" of Gotiraa, for I 
have seen a real idol, as largo as life, and almost "as old as the 
hills." 

But we must pass on. Ugh! Look at that Indian! Ob, dear! how 



K A S T W A U I) n o ! '.][) 



foolish! — it is only a plaster cast of "Lo," encased in the gaudy 
costmne of the race. Tliere are a number of those casts here, I 
see, and here are miny mannfactare;! articles from tin; Indian na- 
tion, but they too must be passed: and so it goes. Our thoughts 
with what we are leaving behind us, and our eyes on what is com- 
ing, we give but little attention to what is at our side. Fit em- 
blem of our every dfty life! We muse over what we have done, 
and dream of what we will do, when we should be doi/i;/. What! 
moralizing in the midst of wonders' That will never do! 

Here are representations of our edible fishes — so many of them. 
What great things those plaster casts ai-e, to be sure! Here are 
some of the paraphrern-ilia of trout and salmon fishing. Those 
dies you see are not real files, they are artificial. How beautiful! 
You never saw files so bright and gay, did you.' 

Here are some native woods, arranged in the most attractive 
style, and it is right that they should have a place, for surely the 
lumber ti*ade of our nation is one of its greatest industries. So we 
have made the rounds of the building, enclosing nearly two acres, 
and constructed by the (xovernraent at a cost of about sixty 
thousand dollars. 

Here is the "Emma, with her train. Let us take a ride. It is 
only the little engine on the narrow-gauge railroad, of which I am 
speaking. We pay our money and away we go to the north, 
then making a bold curve to the east, we sweep down just south 
of Agricultural Hall, with its green cmvas roof. Let us stop at 
the station here, and go down to the Great American Restaurant 
for dinner. 

We pay a great deal of money, and get very little dinner, but 
we have no complaint to make of the quulity. We rest hero for 
awhile in the shade, being careful not to get into the Beer 
Garden. 

Well, here comes a train, let us be going. This is not the "Em- 
ma," but a larger locomotive called the "Schuylkill. " with a longer 
train. 

Now we make a broad sweep (a short curve ft)r a railway train> 
around Agricultural Hall, seeing first the Cheese Factory, then a 
group of tall wind mills on the right, and as our train takes a 
westward course again it stops at Brewer's Hall. As we are all 
Temperance people, we do not stop here, but keep right on to the 



40 EASTWARD HO 



west, until the train stops at State Avenue, where we alight Iq 
take a look at the State Buildings. 

We come to the Pennsylvania building first, but (lov. Hayes 
is holding a reception at the Ohio building this afternoon, and we 
will go on and see him. 

Ohio's building is constructed of neatly dressed stone, from the 
difterent quarries of the State. We are informed that this is one 
of the buildings which the Park Commissioners have decided to re- 
tain, as an ornament to the Park. As we go into the hall, we see the 
parlor to the left, and the gentlemen's reading-room and the com- 
mittee room on the right. In the latter room we see the Govern- 
or. He has been engaged with the Ohio Centennial Commission, 
but he has now risen to receive his friends, and a genial smile 
overspreads his features as he returns their greetings. In this- 
respect our engraving does not do him justice, giving him rather 
an austere look, though in other respects it is a passable likeness. 

Just here I would say that we were not so fortunate as to get a 
glimpse of Gov. Tilden, which we accounted for by the fact that 
he was at this time engaged on his celebrated "letter of accept- 
ance." However, our artist has been able to secure an excellent 
likeness of him, as we were not willing that he should suft'er on ac- 
count of his misfortune, for we know he would certainly have- 
shown himself, had not this matter imperatively demanded his 
attention.* 

In the hall of the building is a large book, in which all the visit- 
ors from Ohio are requested to register their names, and we ac- 
cede to the request with cheerfulness. 

In the rear is the reading-room, where files of all the leading 
journals of the State are free to the world. This room is merely 
a wooden annex to the more pretentious stone front. Notw-ith- 
standing this defect, Ohio may well be proud of her building. 

Next to Ohio on the west come Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin, 
all in wooden buildings, and all noteworth}' in themselves, but 
we are constrained to desist when we think of what is before us. 

Michigan, like Ohio, designs to show, in her building, some of 
the natural products of her soil. Most notable is the hard wood 
finish, showing the diti'erent kinds of lumber for which the State 
is noted. Then come the buildings of New Hampshire and Con- 

* This paasajro "as written a lew diiys after flie Presidential P.lectioii. wlien Mr. 'riUlcMi'* 
(dectioii was tlinui^lit to he certain. I'crliaps there was a little l>itterness in my lieart wlietk 
J wrote it, but I have iie\er lelt liUe chaniiiii;,' il. 




i;. r.. II A V 



VKS. CoVEHNoK oV ()lll«>. 



42 E A S T W A K D HO 



nectiout. The desiji^n of the latter was furnished by Donald G. 
Mitchell, (-Ik. Marvel") and it is aboiat the only State Building- 
that can lay any claims to the style of a hundred years aj^-o, and 
even in this the designer thinks that the eri't'ct is \Yeakened by the 
want of harmony in detail. He sneaks of it in tiiis style: "There 
is a lireiock of Putnam's over the mantel, and above it a new por- 
trait of the hero, in the newest of gilt frames. There is a relic of 
Charter Oak, and beside it a smart photograph of the present 
accomplished chief niugistrate, " ^tc. (Scribner. for Sept.) 

.\fter this come tlie buildings of Massachusetts, Delaware and 
Minnesota, which completes the row on the north side of State 
Avenue, but just opposite jire the more pretentious buildings of 
Xew Yt)rk, Arkansas and Californin. with Neva.la. The latter two 
united in constructing one building. In it we see several panels 
of the most rare woods of those States, but beyond this there is 
nothing worthy of note. The Arkansas building, with its hexa- 
gon-domed roof and expanse of glass, attracts much attention, 
and has a look of airiness peculiar to buildings in the South. 

The New York building makes some ])retensions to architectural 
beauty, has a fine veranda almost surrounding it, and the interior 
is elaborately and rather showily finished. Off a little way to the 
west is the Missouri building, which makes cpiite a display, but 
passing still farther we coniK to the West Virginia building. 
This State has introdneed a new feature in the State displays. 

Besides the custom'iry parlor and reading-room, we here find a 
large room filled with various exhibits from the State. Of course 
it makes no great display in agricultural products, but in minerals 
and woods the exhibit i>> splendid. Of the latter there are about 
eighty varieties, a collection only surpassed by that in the Govern- 
ment building. 

Not far from the New York building arc; the British Govern- 
ment buildings. Of the interior of these, we could learn nothing, 
for at the entrance we see placards like this: '-.Positively no ad- 
mission except on business. " In the external apiiearance there is 
a kind of picturesip^e irregularity; but nothing to specially at- 
tract the attention of those who have been seeing "till the tired 
senses tiche with gazing." 

A little way to tlie west we find the Japanese Dwelling, with its 
curiosities of architecture. The ingenious joinery and the neat 
method of placing the tiles on the roof, not uninteresting to any 
one, ha^l a special interest to mechanics. 




SAMl KL .1. ilLIHlN. ( ;« iN i: i;N( "U <»1" NKW ^■()KK, 



44 EASTWARDHO 



The Canadian building is unique, being a great "timber house." 
The columns are huge saw-logs set up, and the whole edifice is 
constructed to correspond. The Mississippi building is also con- 
«tructed of logs, and the internal finish is of native woods, there 
being sixtj'-eight varieties used, all from one county. The exter- 
nal finish is a drapery of a kind of gray moss, which is found in 
abundance in that State. This gives it a very picturesque appear- 
ance, but I remember overhearing a convei'sation between two citi- 
zens of that State, in which the action of the State Centennial 
Commission was criticized in no gentle terms, for erecting such a 
house as a representation of the dwellings of Mississippi. They 
were evidently over-sensitive. 

As we draw near the gate at which we entered the grounds in 
the morning, we see a building bearing on its front the one word, 
"Espana." This building is open to all, but as we enter and see 
the armed sentinels pacing to and fro "with measured tread," and 
notice their suspicious looks, we scarcely feel at home; but we see 
some specimens of ancient arms and armor; exhibits of wood from 
various jDlaces, and some models of castles, fortresses and battle- 
fields in Spain, before we sneak away, feeling very much as 
though we had been unwelcome visitors. 

From this place we hasten down to Fountain Avenue, and make 
our exit without more ado, for surely, if a day in the Exhibition 
does not convince any man of his own insignificance, "there is 
more hope for a fool than for him." 



E A S T W A R D H O I 45 



CHAPTER YI. 

TWO DAYS IN THE CENTENNIAL ART GALLERY. 

"A tliiiij; of huaiity is a joy forever: 

Its loveliness increases; it will never 
I'jiss into nothinj^ness; but still will keep 
A Ixiwer quiet for us, luul a sleep 
l'"ull of sweet dreams, and health, iiufl (juiet breathiri;:. 

Therefore, on every morrow, are wi; wreattiiiij.' 
A llower band to bind us to tiie earth, 

Spit(! of despondence, of the inhuman dearth 
f)f noble natur(!S, of the ;;loomy days, 

Of all the unhealthy and oe'rdarken'd ways. 
Made for our searchinj;, yes, in si)ite of all. 

Some shape of beauty moves away t\u: ))all 
From our dark spirits." ' ' * ' '— [lieats. 

After a nif^ht's rest, we feel so much refreshed that we sally 
forth with the express purpose of seeing the pictures. "With this 
object in view we leave Fountain Avenue near the fountain before 
mentioned, and pass down a flight of steps to the Avenue of the 
Republic, at the north-west corner of Machinery Hall. We follow 
this Avenue the whole length of the Hall, leaving the lakelet with 
its sparkling fountain to our left. As we near the east end of the 
Hall, wG see the World's Ticket Office of Cook, Son & Jenkins, 
which we must visit some time. Opposite the (jnadrangle between 
Machinery' Hall and the Main Building, is the Judges" Hall, an 
imposing edifice, erected at a cost of over thirty thousand dollars. 
As there is nothing of importance to be seen there, we shall not 
visit it. A little farther to the east is the "Hou.se of Public Com- 
fort, " where the weary traveler can find everything needful for reno- 
vating himself. On the right we now see the Main Building, ex- 
tending away to the east far as the eye can reach; on our left wo 
see the Carriage and Wagon Annex, but as we pans on to the 
east the Memorial Hall, in all its grandeur, comes into view. 

This building was erected at a cost of one million, live hundred 
thousand dollars, and is entirely fire-proof, being built of granite, 
glass and iron. It is three hundred and sixty -five feet long, and 
two hundred and ten wide, covering one and one lialf acres, and in 
looking at the works of art in this building we shall have to travel 
nearly two miles. 



K A S T W A U 1) 



As we approacli the building our attention is ;ittructe(l to tlio 
statue called the "American Soldier," from tlic New England 
Granite (.'o. of Hartford, Conn. It is made from the white granite 
tiuarried at Westerly, 1\. I. It is twenty one feet and a half in 
height, and is well proportioned, weighing thirty tons. The sol- 
dier stands at rest, facing ^Memorial Hall: his huge mustache does 
not give him a tierce look, but he has that countenance which 
shows he is not a soldier from choice, but from duty. The statue 
will be removed at the close of the Exhibition to the battle-ground 
at Antietam. for which place it was expressly designed, and it 
would not be at all surprising to me if tliis work of art would be- 
come as famous as "The Greek Slave.' 

As we turn to the Hall we see two winged horses, each designed 
to represent the mythological Pegasus. By the side of one stands 
a figure emblematic of Music; by the other a figure representing 
History; they are of bronze, and as they are the property'of tlie 
Park Commission, I presume they will remain in their present po- 
sition, one on the east, the other on the west buttress of the steps 
at the entrance of Meniorial Hall. We were much pleased with 
these groups. They seemed to say that, though 3Iusic and History 
might be supported to some extent by the famous steed of ApoHo 
and the Muses, they should not mount. 

We enter Gallery A. and see some line stalunry from Italy, but 
the name would tell so little that we will look, and then puss on 
until we see something more worthy of note. In (4allery B, west 
side, we see a fine picture by'.T. Hamilton, of Philadelphia, entitled 
"Break, Break, Break, On thy cold, grey stones, O Sea," an ocean 
scene, true to nature. Near this is a picture by Eastman John- 
son, "What the Sea Says. ' A child holds a large shell to his tar, 
and thinks he hears the song of the waves: another by the same 
artist is called, "The Old Kentucky Home," representing a family 
of negroes resting after the lal)()rs of the day are ovei'. The sur 
roundings of such a home are truly delineated. 

In the same room is a painting by George Wright, entitled 
"One too Many." A ))rett} !Miss lias two wooers, and seems 
somewhat embarrassed how to entertain l>oth at once. Near this 
is one by Edward Moran, called 'Tlie Minot Ledge Light," nnotlior 
marine view, and very line. 

In this room is a large group representing "The Inited States 
Directing the Euture of America." < >f sculpture wi- see here ah^o, 
"Jeremiah," bv Miss Eolev: "INredea." l>y W. W. Story: bust of 



48 E A S T W A E D H O 



Charles Sumner, by Preston Powers; and one of Hon. Wm. M. 
Evarts, by Aug. St. Gaudens. 

Passing- out of Gallery B, at the south-west corner, we are near 
the entrance of Gallery C. In this gallery we see the '-Battle of 
Gettysburg," by P. F. Kothermel. As there is a key near by, for 
interpretation, we are led to conclude that there are many por- 
traits in the pieoe; but we do not care to spend so much time on it. 
It is a large picture, and a scene of confusion, as a battle-scene is 
apt to be. In this gallery, opposite the battle-scene, is a portrait 
of its hero. Gen. Meade. 

It is so warm here, let us go out into the air. Here is a kind of 
an arcade on the east side of the entrance; there we can find both 
air and shade. Why, here is some statuary too — a Psyche, a bust 
of Michael Angelo, another of Dante, besides a Vulcan, a Hebe, and 
other exquisite pieces. 

In one of the corridors of Memorial Hall is a bronze statue by 
Pezzicar, of Trieste, Austria, representing "The Abolition of Slavery 
in the United States." It represents a very ugly negro, with his 
hands, from which the manacles have just fallen, thrown above his 
head, seeming to be in great exultation. It is .'jaid that John T. 
Raymond, the actor, (''Col. Sellers," in Mark Twain's "Gilded 
Age,") was standing near this statue one day, when a countryman 
came up and a.sked him what it was. "The Greek Slave," said he 
without hesitation. "Is that so?" said the man. "Well now, I 
heerd that was purty: but I swan, I don't see that it is; but then 
it's a fact, it do look more nateral like than them marble cuttins 
they have aroiuid here." The man was satisfied. If that was the 
Greek Slave, which everybody thinks so pretty, it must be pretty. 
But that is wandering a little. Let us return to the jDictures. 

Here is "President Lincoln's Deathbed," with the weeping 
lady, the grave Surgeon General, and the sad-faced Cabinet offi- 
cers, in all a very solemn scene. But here is Bierstadt's "Great 
Tree, Mariposa Grove, California," giving a slight idea of the alti- 
tude of those giant "Fathers of the Forest;" not that artist's hand 
could do better, but that no man who has not seen, can appreciate 
the delineation of such wonders, either with brush or pen. In 
another gallery is "The Yosemite Valley, " by the same inimitable 
artist. A sight of this painting alone, is well worth the price of 
admission to the Exhibition. 

A very spirited piece is "Yankee Doodle. " Those musicians, one 
of them a mere boy, seem to wake such music from fife and drums, 



E A S T W A n D H o ! 49 



that the pei'son lookiug at the picture almost catches the inspira 
tion. In scenery, nothing- we have yet seen surpasses "Crown 
Point, antl the Narrows, Lake Caarnplain." But here is a picture 
which all can appreciate: "The Tramp" is resting by the wayside, 
and we see a true representation of this class of our population. 
This completes our list of paintings by our own artists. 

In the "Chii'ot Race," by A. Wagner, London, we see horses so 
true to life, that the beholder almost expects to see them move 
ofif at a break-neck pace. In the same gallery is n painting which 
has a humorous side. There are two dogs, a kitten and a monkey. 
The latter, probably out of pure meanness, has spilled a pan of 
milk, from which its friends were hoping to have their breakfasts. 
The droll look of the monkey, as he sees the disappointment of his 
companions, will provoke a smile. The picture is called "There's 
many a Slip 'twixt the Cup and the Lip." 

A picture which attracts a great deal of attention ig Friths 
"Marriage of H. R. H. the Prince of Wales. ' The portraits are 
good, the coloring is rich, and it is a marriage scene. This would 
attract attention, even if he were not the Queen's son. Another 
by the same artist, which is even better, though it does not at- 
tract so much attention, is "The Railway Station." It is time to 
life, and any one who has seen and been a part of such a crowd, 
knows what it is. To others it cannot be described. 

Sir E Iwin Landsesr (late Royal Artist) has several pictures in 
the English Department, nearly all of animals. "The Traveled 
Monkey" seems to be telling of his exploits to attentive auditors of 
his own race. "The Study of a Lion" is ver}' good, though 
it makes no pretensions to being more than a study. "The Death 
of Cleopatra," by Prinsep, is a noticeable picture, especially to 
those who have been impressed by the story of her tragical end. 

Another i)icture in the English Department, which attracts the 
attention of those versed in classical lore, is Riviere's "Circe and 
the Companions of Ulysses." Homer would have us believe that as 
Ulysses, .son of Laertes and King of Ithic;i, was returning from the 
Trojan War, in which he ha 1 distinguished himself, he was cast up- 
on the Island of .E:ea. the home of Circe, daughter of the Sun 
and Perse. This personage had the ability to convert men into 
swine when she could get them into her power. The Compan- 
ions of Ulysses, while exploring the Island, by partaking of a 
repast that she had prepared for their benefit, were brought un- 
der her control, and she immediatelv changed them into swine. 



>0 E A S T AV A R D H O ! 



This pliase of the story, the artist ilhistrates. The lean, 
hungr^'-lookinfj hoj]fs crowd around and rnb against her, as hungry 
hogs will. There is nothing to be learned from this picture, un- 
less the story be taken in the allegorical sense, that men make 
hogs of themselves by drinking; nor is it specially beautiful, but 
I supi^ose our rural friends appreciate it, for one of them is said to 
have hunted it up in his catalogue, and when he I'ead the subject, 
he turned to his wife and exclaimed, "I say, old woman, that's 
the hardest slap old Grant's got yet! " 

I think he must be a brother to the man who attended a Fourth 
of July celebration at Newton, Iowa. A friend and class-mate of 
mine, a Republican, read the Declaration of Independence. He 
was followed by the Orator of the day, who happened to be a 
Democrat. While he was speaking a man in the crowd was seen 
to be inur^h excited, rubbing his hands, and exclaiming to his 
friends, "aint he a givin it to that Republican?" "What Repub- 
lican? " said a bystander. "Why the one who spoke just before 
him," said the man. Comment is not necessary. 

In "Prometheus Bound, ' we have another mythological sketch, 
by which we are reminded of our school days. Longfellow fiays: 

"Beautiful i.s t\n: tradiliinr 

Of tlivt lliglit thr(niy;!i lieavouh; port.al.s, 
T!k' (lid classic superstition 
Of the thift and thu trausniis-tion 
Of tlic (Ire of the Imiuortalsi: 

"Kirst tiie (\w.i\ of noble daring. 

Born of heavenward inspiration, 
Tli(!n tlie tire witli mortals sharing, 
T lien the vulture — the despairing 
Cr/i of jiuin on. cra;is Caufai^inn." 

In "War Tim^" we have a picture which will arouse painful re- 
ininiscenc33 in many a heart. An old man leans against the gate, 
with a far-away look in his eyes. He has a folded paper in his 
hand. No doubt he is thinking of his "pride," upon the battle- 
tield. 

SirDivid Wilkie took up an humble subject when he painted 
"Boys Digging for a Rat," but he treated it well for all that, and 
we were pleased to see it. It reminded us that even we used to 
dig after rats, especially when there was work to be done. 

Among the pictures from France, I remember "The Death of 
Csesar," by Clement. It is a very large picture. Csesar has just 
fallen, and the conspirators bend over him with their daggers. It 



EA S T W A It I) If O ! 51 

seems as though we couKl almost hear the ech(j oi' his last wordt-', 
''Et tit. Brute/" Also, one by Becker, illustrating the text: "And 
Eizpah, the daughter of Aiah, took sackcloth and spread for her 
on the rock, (Gibeah) irom the beginning of harvest, until water 
dropped upon them out of heaven, and suffered neither the birds 
of prey to rest on them by day, nor the beasts of the field by 
Jiight." (ii. Sam. xxi. 10.) God had sent a famine for three years 
on Israel; and David, learning that it was on account of a misdeed 
of Saul's, gave over two of Saul's sons, by Kizpah, his concubine, 
and five of his grandsons, to be hanged by the Gibeonites. This 
was in the Hebrew month XImdi, corresponding to our March^ 
and Rizpah watciied over them there till the rainj- season, begin- 
ning in (October. 

It may be true, as has been observed by Donald G. MitchelK 
that there are man}- inaccuracies in this picture. They were 
probablj' crucified, not hung, as we would understand it; but th<> 
lesson is the same, and I think we should not criticize the pic- 
ture because the artist does not think as we do, on certain minor 
points. The author referred to above would have Rizpah. a frail, 
heartbroken woman, weeping on the rock, mourning for her slain 
sons, but I prefer the artist's version, for surely we would expect 
something fierce and mannish, rather than weak and womanish, 
from a woman who would watch on that lone rock for six months, 
night and day. But what matters it^ The picture is there, for 
approval or censure, and we let it pass, with its lesscjn of maternal 
love. 

In Dumaresque's "Congress of Geneva, 1S7M. ' we see portraits 
of all the persons engaged in the arbitration of the ".\labama 
Claims." Among them are Mortimer K. Waite, now Chief Justice 
of the U. S. Supreme Court, Hon. W. M. lOvarts, and J. Bancroft 
Davis, of the United States. This picture will remind us, toe. 
that it is not necessary for nations to go to war over trifies. 

I suppose that most people have found the drawing of a tooth 
to be "A Painful Operation." It seems that Maurice Blum thinks 
so at least, as he illustrates the operation here over that title. In 
"The First Theft," we see a man before the magistrate for steal- 
ing a watch. His family is with him, and ju<lging from their ap- 
pearance, we are led to conclude that want nmst have led him to 
crime. 

As a contrast to this, and yet I)e:iring a certain relation to it, 
I shall next notice "The First Mourners, ' by Debat. Adam and 



52 EASTWARDHO 



Eve lament over the dead Abel. Cain has fled. We can scarcely 
comprehend the strength of their grief. — This is the first dead 
body they have seen, and he is their son, dead by his brother's 
hand! How terrible to them, how terrible to a parent even now, 
who has been brought up in the midst of death: 

Rouffio, of Paris, presents "Herodias." As she receives the 
head of John the Baptist from her daughter, she rises languidly 
upon her elbow, and lifts the hair from the bloodless face of 
John. Her conscience will permit her to live in unlawful wed- 
lock, and even to commit murder, but she cannot bear to have the 
truth told to her. 

The horrors of the Inquisition are delineated by Emile Adam, of 
Paris. John the Baptist lost his head for telling the truth, but the 
man here represented is being torn limb from limb, because he 
will not tell what others think is the truth. 

With this gloomy scene, we pass, for the present, at least, from 
the five hundred works of art on exhibition here from France. 

The German collection is not so large, comprising, in all, not 
more than one hundred and fifty oil paintings, with a few pieces of 
statuary and other works of art. Reichert's "Blinding of Arthur"- 
is a historical sketch of touching interest. Another is the "Capit- 
ulation of Sedan." There are two pictures in this collection un- 
der that name, but this is by Harach. Emperor William and his 
son, the Crown Prince, together with the principal officers of both 
the German and the French armies, are shown. The coloring is 
rich, and taken altogether, it is a very attractive picture. xVnoth- 
er picture of royalty is "The Crown Prince of Germany on the 
Battle-fields of Worth and AVeissenburg," which is little more than 
an equestrian portrait of the Prince. 

"Early Affliction," representing a young girl with her face part- 
ly in shadow, in an attitude of grief, is very beautiful. Another 
historical sketch is "Queen Elizabeth Signing the Death Warrant 
of Mary, Queen of Scots. ' 

It would seem that the Queen was not fully satisfied with the 
work in hand. She is seated at a table. Near her stands the 
Prime Minister, and there are other men in the background, near 
the entrance. She seems to hesitite, but it is probable that she 
had but little choice, as we know that the deed was done. 

The leading picture from Austria is "Venice Paying Homage to 
Caterino Cornaro. ' I do not know to a certainty, who Caterino 
Gornaro was, nor do I care much. Perhaj^s I should not tell you 



E A S T W A l: 1) U O 1 63 



if I did know; but this is a large picture, about twenty-six feet 
long, and is very rich in coloring, too rich, perhaps, for those who 
are pleased with a plain picture. However this may be, the pic- 
ture attracts as much attention as any on exhibition. And now, on 
account of looking at this picture first, we have but little desire 
to linger by the second-rate pictures, but there are two by Schaef- 
fer that are worthy of notice; one is called "At the Sea, " and rep- 
resents the desolate beach; the waves beat upon the pebbly shore, 
and that is alh but surely the hand of God is there, as well as in 
the brighter scenes. The other is "A Winter Landscape in Styria. ' 
These two pictures, with their sober tints, find favor with tliose for 
whom Caterino Cornaro was too dazzling. 

A bit of beautiful mountain scenery is Obermulners '*View of 
Green Alps, ttc, Upper Engadin, Switzerland." With its rosy 
tint of morning light, it is indeed very fine. 

The Austrian collection is hardly so large as that of Germany, 
and perhaps hardly so interesting: or is it because we are wearied 
by our long, hot day among the pictures? Let us pass on, at any 
rate, and notice Belgium's collection of nearly three hundred works 
of art. Though tliere is much here that is interesting, there seem 
to be but few pictures [that have a special interest, and it seems 
as though we have made too much of a catalogue already, so we 
will call this a day's work and pass on, only noticing "The Unwel 
come Guest." This is a tine fruit-piece, but the "(Tuest" is a pea- 
fowl, which has just made an entrance at the open casement, anil 
if not interfered with, will soon do mischief. 

We now enter upon our second day among the pictures. We 
will this morning notice the paintings from the Netherlands. In 
Gallery 5, Annex to Memorial Hall, we notice "Pack Horses in 
the Woods of St. G.itien, Normandy, " by Nakken. It is a winter 
scene, and is well worthy of attention, as many of the paintings 
are, but we will pass on, noticing only a pair of pictures by 
Mrs. Ilonner, of Brussels. The first is "The Hare in Covert," in 
which the hounds are seen circling around, evidently at fault, 
while the hare is snugly ensconced, but not safely, it seems, if we 
imagine that the second picture follows the first in order of time, 
for here the hare is seen Hying as if for dear life, with the hounds 
in hot pursuit. The hare evidently hopes to distance its pursuers, 
hence the picture is called "The Last Hope." These pictures are 
true to nature. The artist excels in this branch of art. 

There are several fine landscapes here, characteristic of the 



54 EAST W A It 1) u o ! 



countries represented, but it would be idle to attempt to describe- 
them. There are about one hundred and sixty oil paintings in 
this collection, and but few works of art of any other description. 

Denmark has but fifteen paintings on exhibition, but Sweden 
exhibits alx)ut seventy -five, besides some other works of art, and 
many of them are fine. "The Birch Forest" gives us an idea of 
the scenery in that country. Then there is a beautiful waterfall. 
P. Brandelins, Stockholm, exhibits "A Dangerous Excursion." 
Two ladies are out walking, and some cows appear to have taken 
exceptions to their presence, for the^' are giving the ladies a race, 
but a dog comes on the stage, and the cows are forced to tiirn on 
the defensive. 

"The Captured Frenchman" does not pine in his captivity, as it 
is only his heart that has surrendered — to a fair lady. 

As a picture, giving us an idea of the costume of the country, 
Nordenburg's "Wedding in a Swedish Country Church" is an in- 
teresting study. Miss Post exhibits "The Five Foolish Virgins at 
the Locked Door," a Biblical sketch, well executed and interest- 
ing. 

Rydberg's "Spring Landscape" is rather different from what 
such pictures usually are, and, perhaps, nearer the truth. A cart 
is being dragged through the deep mud in the road; the trees are 
bare, and but little green is to be seen; so you will know that it is 
earli/ Spring. In fact, some patches of snow are still to be seen 
here and there, where the earth has been sheltered from the genial 
rays of the sun. 

Perhaps the Norwegian paintings do not so much excel those of 
her sister nations, but scenes in that climate are specially interest- 
ing to persons dwelling in the middle latitudes. Then the rocky 
and much-indented coasts of that country furnish scenes, which,- 
though they may be almost iininteresting to the resident, have a 
peculiar fascination for those who have not learned to disregard 
their beauties, from a too familiar acquaintance with them. 

This will, perhaps, give a key to the attractiveness of such pictures 
as "Midnight Sun in Norway," "Winter Day in a Forest," "Norwe- 
gian Winter Landscape," "Moonlight, Lysekill," and "Moonrise on 
the Norwegian Coast," or "View of the Ice Channel, Christiania- 
fiord," "Waterfall at Tolexnai-ken," "View on the Norwegian 
Coast," "Norwegian Fiord," "The Elk Hunters," "Scenery in 
Komsdalsfiord," and other similar pictures, about fifty in all, 
which we saw in the Norwegian collection. 



E A s r \v A n i> If () ! 55 

Though Italy is considered the home of art, I lind tliiit we no- 
ticed but few of her jiaiutings. but slie takes the lead in statuary. 
Of the one hundred and twenty paintings in tliis collection, there 
are but few that attracted our attention particularly. ''Galileo be- 
fore the Tribunal of the Incpiisition," may be interesting as a his- 
torical sketch, but it is not an attractive picture. 

"The Christian Martyrs under Xero, ' is an interesting picture 
for those who love to think of what was endured by the early 
Christians. "The Interior of the Choir of the Cathedral at 
Parma," is finely p.ainted. One is apt to pass it by, on account of 
the beautiful statuary in the same galler}-. but when once seen, 
critics find that it will bear the closest scrutiny. "The Ducal 
Palace of Venice" is another well executed picture. "Preparation 
for a Feast in Pompeii," is to be seen in the same gallery, and is 
well worthy of attention, as it is executed in the highest style of 
the art, and gives us an idea of the customs in that ancient city. 

The Empire of Brazil has but ten oil paintings on exhibition. 
The largest of these is "The Naval Battle of Riachuelo," (Paraguay- 
an War.) One critic, in speaking of this picture, says, that it is as a 
marine piece what Wagner's "Chariot Race" is among its kind — a 
master-piece. In the foreground a vessel is seen sinking down 
into the water, and so true to nature is it that at lirst glance we 
almost expect to see it disappear slowly beneath the waves. 

But the best painting we saw from Brazil, was on exhibition ut the 
Campbell Press Building, west of Machinery Hall. It is a work 
in commemoration of "The Abolition of Slavery in Brazil. ' In 
the background are two ligures, representing Justice and Charity. 
Justice is turning away, in the act of sheathing her sword, as 
though her work was done, while Charity is dro[)ping a ]nece of 
money iuto the hand of a poor beggar. 

On the x-ight, is a group of four ])ortraits, life-size; Dom Pedro 
II., Emperor of Brazil; his daughter, who signed the bill for the 
abolition of slavery in Brazil, under a power of attorney from her 
father, who was then in Europe: their Prime Minister, and one of 
the principal auti slavery agitators of the country. In the fore- 
ground of the picture is a group of well dressed colored children 
at play, but one of them has turned to the group on the right, 
and seems to be pointing them out to his companions as the bene- 
factors of his race. 

On the left, is a group, representing the evils of slave ry. .\ 



66 E A S T W A R D U O 



slave has stabbed bis overseer, wbo is weltering in bis blood. A 
second overseer comes uj), and a second slave bastens to clear 
bimself by accusing tlie murderer. Tbe overseer advances, cat-o'- 
nine-tails in hand, but the guilty man is too quick for him, for he 
is represented as plunging the knife into his own bosom. 

This painting is offered for sale at thirty thousand dollars. It 
is an excellent picture, in execution as well as design. 

We were not much interested in the pictures from Spain. There 
were a few paintings by the old masters here, but it seemed to us 
that there was a want of life in the pictures — that xoinethhuj 
which makes us forget that we are looking at pictures. 

The paintings from Mexico are not of a high order of merit, and 
attracted but little attention from those who had seen the liner 
works of art. The majority of them were of a religious character. 

We have heard that there were some fair pictures in the Kussian 
collection, but as they were not yet open to inspection when wo 
visited the Exhibition, we cannot speak from personal knowledge. 

I will now close my already too long chapter on the Memorial 
Hall by noticing some of the more extraordinary pieces of statuary. 

One very beautiful piece was an -'xirabian Woman." The hands 
and face were bronze, but the drapery was of the finest marble. 
The etiect was unique. It was executed by Cordier, of Paris. 

Another bronze statue by F. Martin, Paris, was entitled "Ne- 
gro-Hunting," in which the l)lood-hounds are doing their work. 

Among the the Italian statuary was "A Veiled Girl." The fea- 
tures were distinctly visible, as through a veil. 

The statuary attracting most attention was that representing 
various phases of child-life, such as ''Eva St. Clair," ("Uncle Tom's 
Cabin,") by Lot Torelli, Florence;. "Playing Cat's Cradle." by 
Braga, of Milan; "Vanity." by Barzaghi, representing a young girl 
trying on a silk dress, and looking over her shoulder to see the 
train: "Love's First Whisper," by Pandiani, of Milan, and many 
others, equally attractive. 

There are many other pieces of statuary that I should be pleased 
to notice, but I feel that I have probably said enough concerning 
the Art Exhibition. I cannot close, however, without noticing the 
dead Savior, with his head pillowed on his mother's knee. There 
was always a group around this, gazing on the solemn scene with 
awe. The nail-prints, the spear-thrust, and the laceration from 
the thorny crown, were all there. A friend said, that as he was 
looking on this scene one day, a gay young lady came up with 



£ A 8 T W A R D II O ! 57 



"Well, now. isn't that just splendid? What does it represent?" as 
though it reminded her of something she hal heard, hut could not 
for the life of her, recall it. 

From those who were so fortunate as to visit the International 
Exhibition at Vienna, in 1873, we learn that the art exhibition 
there, excelled that of the Centennial only in the display of works 
by the "Old Masters," and you will see, from certain remarks made 
■concerning the Spanish pictures, that the common herd did not 
care to see the "Old Masters." 

Certain divines, as well as other parties, have been condemning 
this exhibition, more especially the works of art from France and 
Italy, on account of the many nude figures, which they call in- 
decent. All I have to say in regard to this is, that the only time 
in which there was no sin in the world was when men and women 
were in the state of nature, and that, if I can read aright the 
plain teachings of the Savior of mankind, it says that in Heaven 
there shall be no such thing as sexual desire. That is "of the 
earth, earthy," and .shall pass away. I would not be understood 
as asserting that the ^Millennium may be brought about by the uni- 
versal introduction of nude figures, but it seems to me that this 
mock-modesty, this unnatural prejudice, is more hurtful than bene- 
ficial, and arises more from aft'ectation than honesty. 

To the experienced surgeon, the nether extremities of the female 
are no more than those of the male of his own f^pecies. So it is 
with the artist, and so, in my opinion, should it be with every man 
and woman. It seems to me that every one will admit that this is 
"a consummation devoutly to be wished,'" and I would inquire if we 
are likely to see such a state of afifiirs, while we are not permitted 
to look upon nude figures in painting and statuary ? 

As we wended our way back toward the west entrance, we stopped 
to gaze on B.irthokli's Fountain, on the esplanade between Mnin 
and Machinery Halls. It is constructed of iron, bronzed, and was 
cast in Paris. There are three basins, the second, thirteen feet in 
diameter, supported by three female figures, (called Caryatides.) 
This receives tiie water from the upper basin, which is sujiported 
by three inf.int Tritons; this basin receives tlie water from a mural 
crown, which surmounts the whole structure. The sides of the 
triangular pedestal on which the Caryatides stand, are ornament- 
ed by aquatic monsters an^l fishes, spouting water into the basin 
below. 



58 EASTWAKDHO 



CHAPTER VII. 

MACEINERY HALL. 

"One hnndred years ag"), ilhiminatinK gas was unknown, and pine-knots and tallow 
candles furnished tlie only liglit for the long winter evenings. No iron stoves nor friction 
matches had ever been used. There was not a railroad, nor a telegraph, nor a steamboat, 
in all the world. Not a se.ving machine, nor a reaping, mowing or threshing machine, had 
«vor been made, and there was not a printing press in the world that could print a thousand 
sheets an hour."— [Blade. 

About this time we met Mr. P., a friend who bad arrived in the 
<5ity a day or two in advance of us. He spoke so highly of his 
boarding-place, a private house in the southern part of the city, 
that we were persuaded to change our quarters, and we never re- 
gretted it, for a pleasant family of five or six, three of whom were 
acquaintances, was rather more agreeable than a hotel, with five or 
six thousand guests, and only one acquaintance among them all. 
Indeed, we were well pleased with our young landlady, Mrs. M., 
who had been in the city but a few months herself, and had not 
yet put off her (to us) pleasant country ways. 

Not the least of the attractions of the house, was the niece of 
our host, a dark-eyed Maryland belle, of seventeen, though of 
course we saw but little of her, as wo were always off to the Exhi- 
bition early in the morning. At about half-past seven, we would 
take our lunch-basket, and, walking to the nearest street-car route, 
would take the 15th Street cars to Market, then up Market, and by 
that route to the Exhibition grounds. This trip usually required 
about an hour, but the charge for this seven or eight mile ride 
was but ui7ie cents. 

The Market street cars were always crowded, and the pick- 
pockets were on the alert at all times. One of our fellow-board- 
ers, a lady operative at one of the many Sewing Machine Pavilions 
in Machinery Hall, lost a fine gold watch one day, but the thief 
was taken in the act, the watch was returned, and he, with two of 
his accomplices, safely lodged in the Station House. 

But let us imagine that we reached our destination safely — 
as we always did — and having received our "fifty-cent note," and 
passed through the turnstile, we find ourselves on the esplanade 
between the Main Building and Machinerv Hall. Passing on near 



E A S T W A K D H O ! o9 



Bartholdi's Fountain (previously described) we tarn to tbo left and 
enter the last-named structure. Near the entrance we encounter 
the celebrated Krupp Guns, from Prussia, one of them much 
longer and finer than the one previously noticed, stationed near tbo 
U. S. Government Building, but I incline to the opinion that its 
weight is less, as well as its caliber. Were I to give the weight of 
this immense piece of ordnance, as it stands on its carriage, you 
could not realize it, but when you know that six weeks were con 
Buraed in transporting it from the river to the place it now occu- 
pies in the Hall, you should be able to form an opinion of its vast 
weight. 

We have all hoird of the great Corliss Engine, so let us hasten 
on to take a look at that. The entire weight of this formidable en- 
gine is seven hundred tons, and its capacity is twenty-five luin- 
dred horsa power, which is amply sufficient to move all the ma- 
chinery in the Hall; but if we are not mistaken, there are other en- 
gines in motion in the building. 

The gear ily wheel of the Corliss is thirty feet in diameter, and 
has two hundred and sixteen cogs, weighs fifty-six tons, and 
though it makes thirfy-six revolutions per minute, so nicely is 
everything adjusted that it makes no more noise than a sewing 
machine. 

It seems that every manufa'-turing industry is represented here, 
from the making of a pin or carpet tack to the weaving of the fin 
est silk, or the most costly carpet; from the making of the finest 
movable type to the printing of newspapers and pictures. 

Down the corridor west of the Great Engine, is Sewing Machine 
Row. I never took the trouble to ascertain the number of exhib- 
itors, but would suppose there were twenty at least. Each com- 
pany occupied a little pavilion, some ten feet square, and all seemed 
anxious to dispose of samples of their skill, such as lettering, era- 
broidery, or other fancy work. 

Any notice of Machinery Hall would be incomplete, that did 
not give special attention to the printing presses. The old press 
that Franklin used, more than a hundred years ago, is on exhibi- 
tion, standing in close proximity to the more modern presses, and 
the improvement is not so greiit as one would suppose. It eeenis 
that inventors have given up the hand presses and turned their 
attention to steam presses. 

A person does not soon tire of gazing on a Hoe, a Bullock, or n 
W^alter steam cylinder press at work. They take the paper in u 



60 EASTWARDHO! 



continuous sheet, dampen it, print it on both sides, cut it in the 
proper places, and, if it is desired, a folding machine can be at- ^ 
ta"hed, which will fold the i^apers as fast as they are printed, or at : 
the rate of 15,090 copies per hour. Some of the New York dailies, 
instead of sending their papers to the Centennial, sent their ste- 
.reotype plates down on an early train, and an edition was struck 
off on a press in Machinery Hall. 

The Hoe Press Company had for sale, what were called Centen- 
nial Memorial Certificates, that is, papei-s signed by the Mayor of 
Philadelphia, the Governor of Pennsylvania, and the President of 
the United States, certifying that the holder was a visitor at the 
Centennial Exhibition on a certain day. 

There were Type Writers on exhibition here. The Russian in- 
vention had many advantages over the celebrated American ma- 
chine, though it cannot be worked so rapidly. The former makes 
letters of different sizes, puts in punctuation marks, and uses En- 
glish as well as Russian type. The exhibitors of the American in- 
vention had stereotype letters, of about fifty words, which they 
sold for twenty five cents each, sending them to any address the 
purchaser might select. 

Passing down the aisle on the north side of the Hall, we see the 
Candy manufactories in operation, and we follow the example of 
the others in purchasing some candy manufactured at the Cen- 
tennial. A little farther west, is the space set apart for the illus- 
tration of Sericulture, or the propagation of the silk-worm. . As 
this is a new industry to our nation, it deserves more than a pass- 
ing notice. 

I suppose it is scarcely necessary for me to say, that the ra\^ 
material comes from the cocoons of a species of caterpillars, com- 
monly called the silk-worm, but at any rate such is the case. 
Here we can see silk-worms of all ages, from birth to extreme old' 
age — they live but twenty-six days. They eat nothing but mul- 
berry loaves, which are brought to them from Lansdowne Valley, 
east of the Hall, every day. 

When the little mites come into existence they are not more 
than one seventh of an inch long, and are very black. When 
they attain to the age of twenty-six days they are one and a half, 
inches in length, and they have changed in color from black to 
white, which shows that though "the Ethiopian cannot change his 
skin," the silk-worm can change his. At the end of the twenty- 
sixth day, they begin to bury themselves in their cocoons, forming 



E A S T W A It I) II O ! (11 



their casket from a thread similar to a spider's web. This work 
occupies the caterpillar for about twelve days. After it is com- 
pleted, the lariui slnnibers for twelve days more, when it cuts 
through its silken wall, and appears as a white or crcara-colored 
moth. This moth lives about twenty-eight hours, during wiiich 
time it deposits its eggs. 

But if the cocoons are to be us^d for the manufactura of nilk, 
the "worm" must be killed as soon as the cocoon is complete, for 
after the moth cuts through, the fibers of the cocoon cannot bo 
unwound, and it is therefore worthiest.. 

There is about one mile of fiber in one of these cocoons. The 
caterpillar is killed by being subjected to a hot bath, then the 
cocoons ar6 placed in a basin of cold water, which is gradually 
heated until the gummy substance by which the fibers are held in 
place, is dissolved; then the outer ends of the fibers are collected 
by beating the mass with astifl'brush, when the ends are loosened, 
ten of them are gathered together and twisted into one thread. 

From one ounce of eggs there can be raised, in forty five dnys, 
about forty thousand silk-worms, the cocoons of which will proba- 
bly make eighty-five pounds of silk, valued at fifty cents per 
pound. In Brazil the silk-worm produces six or eight times a year, 
and a child can attend to them, so you can see that there is money 
in the business. 

While on this subject it will be interesting to follow the industry 
a little farther. Since France has always been noted for her silk, 
a person would naturally expect to see some important silk-mak- 
ing machinery from that country, but we found only a single 
loom, and that was for weaving plain, black silk, and had nothing 
extraordinary about it; but near the east end of the Hall, is Mr. 
Stevens' exhibit of looms for weaving ribbon, where, with the aid 
of the Jacquard attachment, he turas out some beautiful work in 
Centennial devices, in the .shape of mottoes, book-marker.«, &c. 
Most of these are exceedingly delicate in sliading, and are of the 
richest colors. It is indeed surprising to see a loom act as^a print- 
er and painter, with such wonderful results. Mr. Stevens is from 
Coventry, England. 

Two American companies display their siik making machinery 
in operation, but I think it would not be profital)le to notice them 
particularly. 

While we are writing about loom^, we may as well notieo the 
improvement on shuttle-movement by James Lyall, of New York. 



62 EASTWARDHO 



This is displayed on the five looms on exhibition by Messrs. J. & 
W. Lyall. In these looms the shuttle, instead of being thrown, is 
drawn from side to side, and is therefore always under control, as 
it can neither go too far nor stop too soon. 

Here we see what is said to be tha largest loom in the world. 
It weaves a piece eight yards wide, and can complete forty yards 
in one day. The shuttle in this great loom travels over one thou- 
sand feet per minute, or over one mile in five minutes, or one hun- 
dred and twenty miles in ten hours. 

In the British section are some admirable knitting-machines, 
from Leicester, also some sewing machines, and locomotives for 
road and farm use, together with engines, steam hammers, boiler 
and armor-plates, and mining apparatus, and many other machines 
that I would notice were I making a catalogue. 

Every one visits the Hydraulic Annex, south of the central part 
of the Main Hall. In the hot weather the air was rendered cool 
and refreshing by the many streams of water which were being 
constantly thrown through it into the great tank below. Hero are 
streams of all sizes, from the half-inch stream, from a nozzle like those 
attached to the hose of a fire engine, to that from an eight or ten- 
inch pipe. Some of the nozzles were turned downward, so that 
the stream was soon lost in the water below, while others were di- 
rected to the roof, and so nicely was the power adjusted that the 
highest part of the graceful parabola was within a few inches of 
the roof above. At two o'clock each day the water was turned on 
the cataract at the south end of the Annex. The fall here was 
thirty-five feet, and the water was supplied by a pipe three feet 
or more in diameter. Near this I noticed a hydraulic ram in min- 
iature, which, although in good working order, could not fill a half- 
inch pipe with water. 

Here, too, are several blowing machines, where the boys are al- 
ways playing tricks on unsuspecting spectators. A gentleman 
would pause before one of these machines, when, to his surprise, a 
gust of wind would send his silk hat flying among the machinery; 
ladies' veils and handkerchiefs would be treated in the same way. 

One company exhibits here seven hundred styles of pumps, and 
several foreign nations are represented here, so you can judge of 
the extensiveness of the display. 

Passing down the central aisle, west of the great engine, we no- 
ticed a patent switch-connector for railways. It was so arranged 



E A 8 T W A II I) II f) ! 63 



as to be self-actiof^, that is, the weight of the engine would turn 
the switch, should it happen to be misplaced. 

Near this, we also noticed the patent flexible fihafling, which, 
though as flexible as a rope, was so constructed as to offer as much 
resistance to torsion as an iron rod of the same dimensions. 
It was neatly covered, so that at first sight we took it to be a rub- 
ber hose, but the weight soon i;ndeceived us, for it is composed of 
wires ingeniously coiled in such a manner as to resist torsion, but 
at the same time to give it the utmost flexibility. This shafting 
can be attached to the common kind, and so give a change of di- 
rection without the intervention of gearing. 

Of course the usual force of lathes, s:^roll saws, emerj' stones, and 
other minor accompaniments of an Industrial Exposition, were 
here, but we had seen so much of them at other places that wo 
cUd not si^end much time with them. 

But the India Eubber Works, on the north side of the Hall, 
west of the center, was quite a novelty to a majority of the visitors. 
A Ilhode Island company had a full set of machinery in operation, 
capable of turning out live hundred pairs of overshoes per day. 
The whole process, from the washing of the crude gum of the 
Caoutchouc tree, to the finishing of an overshoe, was displayed. 
Not the least interesting part of the work was the vulcanization of 
the rubber by the Goodyear process, for vulcanized rubber has 
taken quite an important place among the late improvements. 

Just west of this is the Paper Mill, where we saw the whole 
process of paper-making, from the cleaning and cutting of the rags 
td the cutting and packing of the paper. To many this display is 
even more interesting than the India llubber works, for it seems 
very strange that the nice white paper can be made from dirty 
rags. In whatever sliape we see rubber, it is rubber still; but in 
the paper mill, rags go in and paper comes out. It savors of a 
conjuror's trick, but it is needless for me to say that one inspec- 
tion of the works here does away with all its mysteries. 

The Campbell Press Building is a small, two-stoiy wooden 
structure, at the west end of Machinery Hall. The display here is 
of printing presses alone, but they were of all sizes, from the 
smallest hand-presses for cards, to the largest steam press, all of 
the styles called the Campbell Press; but as we have already looked 
at so many presses, we see nothing new here. 

Just south of the west end of the Hall, is the Nevada Quartz 
Mill, for separating silver from the rock, but wo could see little 



(>4 E A S T W A R D U O ! 



here. There are some larpfo hoppers, seeming^ly not itnHke huge 
coffee-mills, with the grinding apparatus driven by steam. These 
hoppers, or crucibles, or whatever we may call them, were pretty 
well nilcd with water. Connected with each of them was a small 
cylindric^al tank, where the silver appeared in a Huid state. The 
man in charge told us that the silver, from its specific gravity, 
found an exit at the base of the crucible, from whence it was led 
by a tube to the receiver, where the presure of the water in the 
crucible caused it to rise, just as the mercury rises in a barometer, 
on account of the pressure of the air. There were specimens of 
the silver on exhibition in bars, as well as in coins and medals. 

But we must not forget to notice the Chime of Bells in the 
Hall. Listen! they are sounding now, and the tunes, as they ring 
out, one after another, are sometimes mournfully sweet, sometimes 
provokiugly lively. A person is reminded of Poe's Wedding 
Bells: 

"O, Iroin oiil the HOiiiidiiig cells, 
VVhiit n f,'iii<li of eiiplioiiy volimiiuotisly Bwolls ! 
How it swells ! 
J low it (hv(!lls 
Oil the fiituro! how it tolls 
Of the riipturo that impels 
To the swinging and the ringing 
Of tlie hdlc, bells, bells !" 

This chime has been purchased by Mrs. A. T. Stewart, of New 
York, perhaps to play a grand wedding march at her next mar- 
riage, but I am sure I don't know. 

Machinery Hall is 1,402 feet long and 360 feet wide, encloses 
about fourteen acres, and has been constructed at a cost of seven 
huudred and ninety-two thousand dollars. 

We now begin to see what a work it has been to somebody to 
make this Exhibition the success it has been, and when we think 
that the directing and supervision has been done by one man; that 
for two and a half years, he has labored most earnestly and most 
wisely, as we now see, we are inclined to say, "Let us not for- 
get to honor Director-General Goshorn." 

Probably no man in America was better qualified for the work. 
In his connection with the Cincinnati Industrial Exposition, ho 
had an excellent training for the work to which he was called. 




A. T. COSiroRX, I)IItECTOH-(;i:NKI{AL OF TFFE CENTK.V- 
NIAL KXFfir.ITlMX. 



CG EASTWARD H (J 



CHAPTER YIII. 

M.VIK BUIt.DING AND AGKICULTUKAL HAI.L. 

"Nt» intelligent boj" or i,'irl, iia.st twolvt!, (ran tail to receive more beucllt from a week's 
careful study of the Fair, under an experienced eye, than from any three months of or-- 
(liuary schoolintr." — [Donald (i. Mitchell. 

The Main Building was so large that we hesitated to under- 
take the work, but a time came when we felt that we could put it 
off no longer. 

In the central tower of this building are four groups in fresco, 
representing the four grand divisions of the world. In the pic- 
ture for Europe, we see Shakspeare, Charlemagne, and an allegoric 
figure representing Europe; on America's side we see Washington^. 
Franklin, and a figure; for Asia we see Confucius, Mahomet, and 
another figure; while, as the representative men of Africa, Rameses^ 
and Sesostris flank the figure that symbolizes that country. Near 
this central tower is an elevator, by which we may reach the top 
of the tower, gaining an excellent bird's-eye view of the interior 
arrangement of the building as we ascend, and having a good 
prospect of the grounds from the top of the tower. 

The display in this building reminds one very much of the Main 
Hall of the Cincinnati Industrial Exposition, as we should expect, 
when we know that the same hand has had the management; but 
of course the former is much more extensive and varied, as the 
whole world is represented. The countries exhibiting are located 
in sections, running crosswise with the building — from north to 

south. 

Of course I shall not be able to give any extended description of 
this display in the space allotted me. I cannot even promise to 
note all the important things, while I may at times permit myself 
to speak of trivial affairs, but I shall be on my guard in this re- 
spect. 

As we come into the grounds at the principal southern entrance, wo 
find ourselves again near Bartholdi's Fountain, but this time we turn 
to the left, and enter the Main Building at the south-west corner, 
and are at once confronted bv the Ancient Peruvian relics, such as 



E A S T \\ A It I> II () I 67 

mummies, pottery, «Vc A person enterinj,' tlie IniiKlin^' litri'. \h 
apt to be somewhat disgusted. It does have much the appearance 
of a grave yard, but there is not much of it, and indeed I am not so 
sure but it is Ix'tter to have some reminders of man s mortality, 
mingled with his mighty works, else it might be that men. liku 
Alexander, would be thinking tliemselves gods. 

These ghastly inhabitants of the grave, are of even a more for 
bidding aspect than those who now inhabit the ''cities of the dead." 
Here we see the streaked, shriveled forms of the munnuies of the 
Incaa of Pern, with long, waving tresses, and sharp, yellow teeth. 
I have no particular notes on this department, so I shall use an 
item from one of our newspapers: 

"One form — that of a female, with even, gray hair — is covered 
with a canvas shroud, wrought with feathers, but so fragile with 
age that were it removed from the glass case, a slight pufT of air 
would blow it into nothing. Crosswise in her mouth, lies a cop 
per spoon; an ivory disc being fastened across her mouth by a cord 
• encircling the head. Knitting sticks, needles of hard wood, and 
bales of cotton yarn, are tied about her body. By her side is a 
miniature bell, of virgin gold, with a clai)per of stone, and several 
jars, which contained food and water. All these appliances are 
for use in the home of the sun god. the presiding deity of the 
Incas. The warriors, instead of the knitting sticks and other fe- 
male appliances, are laid away with war clubs of hard wood. Each 
mummy is idso supplied with a piece of dotii for wear in the .^pir- 
itland" — but if you wish to pursue this subject farther, I refer 
you to the "Pre historic Races of America." 

It is clearly demonstrated here, that the method of preserving 
the dead was lost when the race of the Incas became extinct, more 
than three thousand years ago. for the remains of the Auracanian 
Indians, not half us old as the others, are but little more than 
skeletons, though there is sufficient evidence that an cft'urt to pre 
serve them had been made. 

The skulls of the Incas sliow a f lir development of the intel- 
lectual faculties, but the later Auracanians are of a much lower 
type. This collection is said to be the most importnnt of its kind 
in the world, and has been collected after a search of a hundred 
years in the fifty mounds within the tenitory of Peru. The ex- 
cavation has been conducted by the government of that State. 
Next north of the department of Peru is that of Chili, but there 



68 E A 8 T W A R D H O 



is nothing of special interest here; so we pass on to the north to 
the exhibition of the Argentine Republic. 

If the Peruvian department had the appearance of a grave-j'ard, 
we think that of Argentina might as appropriately be called a 
tan yard. Hides, horns, leather, saddles, &c., occupied a great 
portion of the space It was here that the wonderful trunk was on 
exhibition. It was not at all a pi'etentious-looking trunk — none of 
your Saratogas — but though we had seen a little folding furniture, 
this trunk was a curiosity. Without interfering with its contents, 
it could be transformed into an elegant sofa. Press on one arm 
of the sofa, and a writing-desk, with all its apj^ointments, came 
forth. Lean on the other arm, and a traveler's neeessaire ap- 
pears, with every convenience that could be desired. While in 
this position the receptacle for clothing is in the back of the sofa. 
This back may be let down, and the sofa becomes a bed. By an- 
other transformation, the bed is converted into a table for four, 
and in the proper receptacle are all the requisites of a table, such 
as linen, dishes and cutlery. Nothwithstanding all this, the trunk 
was not heavy when closed. This unique contrivance has been 
sold for six hundred dollars in gold. 

On the other side of the grand central avenue, still far- 
ther to the north, is Italy's department, extending from the 
avenue to the north side of the building. This section, being the 
first north of the main western entrance, receives its share of at- 
tention from the early crowd, and we cannot say that they will 
not find as interesting a display as those who turn south to Ar- 
gentina's leather show, or the Peruvian mummies. 

For the aesthetic taste, there are wood carvings of artistic de- 
sign and ingenious execution ; all kinds of fanciful figui-es, carved 
in a kind of hard nut wood ; some excellent figures in terra cotta, 
the most noted being a life size statue of Garibaldi, studying a 
map of his project of turning the course of the Tiber, and some 
splendid jewelry, shown by Castellani, of Rome. But for those 
who make no pretensions in the way of art, the curiosities here 
for sale are more attractive. Among these, we remember 
some Florentine mosaics, Genoese silver, and a grand array of 
trinkets from the glass-makers of Venice. It may be, however, 
that the shop-like urgence of the attendants disgusts us, for we 
do not tarry long. We have long since learned, that if we have 
no desire to purchase, it would be much better not to listen to the 
outcry of the shop-keeper or auctioneer. 



BASTWARD HO! 



r,i» 



Just a step to the east brings us into the court of Norway and 
Sweden. The first things that nttrnrt th.,' attention of the visitor 
here, are the hfe-size groups of Scandinavian peasants, which are 
executed in a style which is designed to be true to the Hfe. wheth 
er it is artistic or not. It is phiin to see that there has been no 
posing for efiect, but merely a natural grouping of the family or 
company to be represented. 

One is a})t to pass from one of these group.^ to another, without 
giving particular attention to the exhibit projjer : but the huge 
galleon of Norway, with its iron nggingand big Viking on board, 
attracts as much attention as the groups of peasants. You will 
recollect, that while noticing the Scandinavian pictures, wo said 
that they had a special interest from the fact that they gave us 
such a good idea of the country from which they came. The same 
might be said of the exhibit here : the tall stoves, with their out- 
side plates of porcelain or bronze : the peculiar sleighs : the vobea 




I-AMILV (iUori" FKoM SWV.DKS. 



70 E A S T W A R D H O ! 



and furs, and many other things, serve to remind us that the win- 
ters of that climate are long and severe. 

Just across the grand central avenue from the court of Sweden, 
is the exhibit from the island empire of the East, Japan. Here 
we see signs of well-directed work, as well as patient industry in 
the elaboration of trifles. They have so many artisans in that 
country, that the object is more to find employment, than to seek 
work where they can do the most good. Were we to attempt to 
notice everything of interest here, we would be undertaking an 
interminable work, for there is nothing common — all is strange: 
so we will notice a few things and then pass on. 

And first we notice some vases, cups, stands, etc., of a peculiar 
kind of bronze, which seems to be a combination of bronze, gold 
and silver. One of these large vases meets us at the very threshold 
of the court. There is a circular plat of earth, surroitnded by 
bowlders, in which are growing various peculiar plants. In the 
center rises the vase before mentioned. Though it is rather shal- 
low, it spreads out to the width of four feet, and on its polished 
surface are decorations, representing flying cranes, standing out 
in bold relief : from the center of the vase rises a bronze repre- 
sentation of an old tree-crag, from which a green-bronze-winged 
dragon hoists its hideous head, and blows up the water -jet^, which 
fall into the basin below, and from the rim of that the water 
drenches the blooming plants in the garden plat. 

On one side of this charming fountain is the display of porce- 
lain, on the other is the display of metal-workers of Japan, and, 
ladies, yoiir Japanese sisters display specimens of needle-work 
which will cause their more civilized sisters to look to their lau- 
rels. In inlaid work, both on wood and metal, the artisans of 
Japan, I think I can safely say, lead the world; but though the 
specimens are unique, to say nothing of their beauty, we cannot 
tarry, and so will pass on to the south, into the Chinese court. 

Here we see stiU more to wonder at. Though even less artistic 
than the exhibit of their island neighbors, the products of the 
Chinese artisans show more of that patient, skillful workmanship 
which we noticed in the other court. I know not why it is — 
whether these people have no just conceptions of the forms of 
life, or whether they have such a strong sense of the grotesque 
that they cannot control it — but certain it is, that, to our eyes at 
least, their carvings and engravings of men and animals 
seem to be burlesques. 



K A S T W A l; li 11 I) I 71 

The wood and ivory carvings iire tlu; most, notable attractioDH. 
here. In tbeir carvings, these people work in niaiiy features of 
their religion and national sentiment, the dragon — tlie eniMem of 
the nation — predominating, but among all these carvings we can 
describe but two or three, and even that must be done briefly. 

First we will notice one of the ivory balls. The one I have in 
mind is a splufre live inches in diameter, richly carved in figures 
of cities, men, trees and flowers. In this shell — as it proves to 
be — are fourteen perforations, and, looking through these boles, 
we see another ball on the inside, similarly carved : inside of this 
we see others, and we are informed that there are (irt )iti/-thrcr 
balls inside the outer shell, eacli one a very little smaller than the 
one which encloses it I Ail these are ingeniously carved. Though 
the attendants were kind enough to explain the modu,^ <i}>eran(}i 
in carving these enclosed balls, I shall not attempt to repeat it, 
but will merely say that they are all carved from one solid piece, 
and the work was done by inserting a carving instrument into the 
holes before mentioned. 

Another exqui-site piece of work is a mountain carved in ebony. 
In this mass is imbedded a carved block of ivory, ten antl a half 
feet long. At the foot of the mountain is tiie representation of a 
bamboo plantation, with Chinese laljorers moving aliont, ])usliing 
aside the tall, tree-like reeds. Carved in the ivory, on the moun 
tain side, is a magnificent city. Tall trees shade the joss-houses 
and palaces : the streets are full of lifi- : soldiers marching, citi- 
zens hurrying to and fro, others leaning out of the windows, and 
above all towers the great pagoda or temple, the land -mark of 
every city. Nothing seems to have been forgotten. This inimit 
able piece of work, though it is said to have occupied one man for 
three years, to say nothing of the material, has been sold for three 
hundred dollars. 

Then there is a carving in ivory, representing a Chinese pagoila 
or temple, with its plat of ground, which is well worthy of note ; 
but we will only stop to notice that it is about four and a half feet 
high, and the carving in many places is so elegantly wrought that 
it is only after a very close inspection that it is to be distinguished 
from the finest Belgian lace. 

There is also a bedstead, carved in wood, which displays a great 
deal of ingenious work. Of course no housekeeper wishes to bavo 
charge of it. but '7 is to the wood-carvings, what the mountain- 
city is to the ivory carvings on exhibition here. 



72 EASTWARDHO! 



Were I writing a book of a thousand padres, instead of one of a 
hundred, I could now go on and enumerate hundreds of curiosi- 
ties displayed here, but as it is, I must desist. There may be 
other countries which exhibit specimens of more artistic beauty, 
but nowhere can we find such a display of Job-like patience and 
marvelous skill. 

As we pass to the east, on one of the side aisles, Ave see the ex- 
hibit of the Sandwich Islands, and just north of that is the court 
of Tunis ; but as there is not much to be learned here, we pass 
on to the north, to the court of Denmark, which borders on the 
south side of the central avenue. 

The crowd is not much interested here, but we notice some 
pottery, beaiing some of Thorwaldsen's figures. It seems that the 
Danes are determined to keep green the memory of their national 
artist. We also notice some richly wrought silver-ware, exhibited 
by Christesen. Over the door-way to this court hang portraits of 
the King and Queen, that pair which has furnished so many rulers, 
or wives to the prospective rulers, of the nations of Europe, begin- 
ning with the Princess of Wales. 

Next east of this, is the court of Turkej', where we see a couple 
of Angora goats, also some fabrics woven from the long, silken 
wool of this animal. Here, too, are specimens of the gorgeous 
carpetings to which the country has given her name, and many 
other oriental fabrics. 

Adjoining Turkey on the east, is a court, the front of which 
bears the following legend: "7'Ae oldest peo'ple hi the world, 
sends its moriiing greetings to the youngest nation," and we know 
that it must be the court of Egypt. But there is not much to re- 
mind us of the Ptolemies, the Pharaohs, or of Moses. It is true, 
there are models of a pyi-amid and sphinxes, which attract consid- 
erable attention, as does also the specimen of Taxidermy, in the 
shape of a huge crocodile. The fountain and flowers at the en- 
trance are scarcely so artistic as those at the Japanese court. We 
see a few I'cmindei'S of the glory of Ancient Egypt. There are 
some rare inlaid dooi'S from the old temples of Cairo, and these, 
with a few curious bits of ornamentation in arabesque, and some 
crude old pottery, must close my notice of this old nation of the 
Nile. 

We have been accustomed to look upon Spain as a vast theater, 
in which her people have been seeing acted out the various his- 
torical dramas which the records of that country show, as occur- 



BASTWARDHO! 73 

ring daring the last ten years. Among all these troubles we 
would not look for much absolute industrial activity, but it may 
be that those of us who think we cannot live under a Democratic 
administi'ation, can learn a lesson from this faction-torn, priest- 
ridden nation, for her exhibit has no need to blush before the best. 
The exhibit pertaining to the affairs of every day life is as varied 
as that of her sister nations, while in fine forged steel, and in in- 
laid metal vases and caskets, this old nation, which is just now 
rising from her lethargy, will cause more noted lands to look to 
their laurels. 

We have learned a few things in regard to Russin, too, from her 
exhibit here. Who would have thought that this faraway, almost 
arctic, region, would lead all other nations in competing with the 
United States in the matter of grand pianos ? Then the work of 
her silversmiths attracts more attention than that of the artisans 
of any other nation, though it may be somewhat less artistic in 
design ; but we have already spoken once or twice in regard to 
the ideas of the common people with reference to the higher style 
of art. The exhibition of furs, though extensive, does not sur- 
prise us, for we expected something of the kind. The great mal- 
achite and rhodonite slabs, (the "green and red things" of the 
newspaper anecdote) are so placed that no visitor will fail to see 
them, and they attract a great deal of attention. The malachite 
is wrought into a hundred ornamental and useful forme, while 
the display of ormolu furniture is very attractive. 

We have yet to pass the courts of Austria and Germany, ere we 
arrive at the center of the building, and then we will have seen one- 
fourth of this grand display, for we have been all this time in the 
southwest corner of the building, noticing only Italy, Norway and 
Sweden, on the north of the avenue. In view of this fact, and 
feeling also that you must be growing weary of this long chapter, 
I am constrained to push on more rapidly. Indeed, wo have now 
nearly finished the curious and peculiar things, and any extended 
description of the plain, matter of-fact displays of such countries 
as Great Britain, France, the United States and Germany, could 
not be otherwise than prosy, for it is a matter of experience that 
these exhibits were uninteresting to the beholder ; then how can I 
hope to make them interesting to you at second hand ? 

There are, however, some things that are worthy of note, such 
as the glassware and meerschaum pipes from Austria, the pottery 
and porcelain from Germany, also the clocks, from the same coun- 



74 EA8TWAKDH0 



try, which count the hours by exquisite bird-notes. 

Great Britain, with her dependencies, occupies the northern 
half of the west end of the building, from the court of Sweden to 
the central rotunda. As might be expected, the display in this 
extensive court is varied. Coming from Canada and India, from 
London and Cape Town, from Jamaica and Queensland, we see 
here something from every quarter of the habitable globe. But 
the rare plumaged birds of New South Wales, the gold nuggets 
of Victoria, the rich, oriental fabrics of India, the cutlery of Shef- 
field, the laces of Nottingham, and the silks of Coventry, are the 
most attractive, though the wares of Dou'ton, the potter, of Lam- 
beth, are never without their avowed admirers. 

Just opposite Great Britain on the eest, is the court of France. 
Here we saw the "Orchestrium" exhibited by J. Thebouville-Lamy, 
of Paris. It was an immense music-box, resembling an upright 
piano in shape, and played ten tunes, in tones designed to imitate 
a complete orchestra. We could hear the shrieking of the violins, 
the whistling of the flute, the wailing of the clarinet, and the 
groaning of the bass-viol. 

Though there is much that is matter-of fact in this exhibit, we 
are pleased with the display in the decorative art. There is no 
harm, certainly, in having beautiful furniture and fixtures, and it 
is in the decoration of such things that the French artisans have 
shown their skill. Articles of every day use are invested with 
such a beauty and elegance, that it would seem like sacrilege to 
devote them to the office for which they were designed. 

Next, to the east, is the little court of Switzerland, which we 
pass, noticing only, as we go, a splendid topographical map of the 
country, and numerous specimens- of the handiwork of its famous 
artisans, in the shape of carved wood and inlaid furniture. ' 

I wonder how many of the sight-seers noticed the little school- 
house in the court of Belgium. We were told that there was such 
a curiosity, but came very near missing it, even while looking for 
it. Its exterior is entirely concealed by other exhibits, such as 
gorgeous tapestry and fine blankets, but it is there, sure enough, 
with its entrance on one of the by-ways. (They must have known 
that the average American never visits a school-house, after he 
once quits its walls as a pupil.) The appointments seemed to 
be complete, even to textbooks, charts, wall-maps, and all the later 
contrivances for smoothing the up-hill road to knowledge. 

There is nothing new here in textile fabrics, but in laces Bel- 



EASTWABDHO! 75 



gium leads the world. There is here, also, a massive pulpit, cov- 
ered with carvings of scenes from the Bible, which shows that other 
people, besides the Chinese, are proficients in this kind of work. 

.The pavilion of Brazil is very attractive, though that nation 
will hardly rank with the South American republics in manufac- 
tures ; but she makes a better display in Agricultural Hall. 

lu the court of Mexico, we are again somewhat surprised, for 
she is even worse distracted and torn by conflict and revolution 
than her parent country. Of course, her mineral wealth is her 
main stay, but in laces, leather, silks and woolens, she makes a 
creditable display. 

I believe that I have now made the circuit of all except the 
United States exhibit, which occupies considerably more than 
one-fourth of the entire building, and to that I shall now direct my 
attention. 

Near the southeast corner of the building, is the book exhibit, 
but I cannot tarry here, for you can see as much in any city book- 
store. The British and Foreign Bible Society exhibits the Bible 
in two hundred languages. This shows what a power it is in the 
dissemination of God's word to the ends of the world. The time, 
in which a teacher could lead a flock and instill into their minds 
the truth as he believed it, is now past. This is the age of read- 
ing, of investigation and of independent thought : and we rejoice 
that it is so, for no mere man-made creeds can withstand such a 
test. But perhaps my reilections are not entertaining, and it 
would be wise in me to deal them out sparingly. 

A Boston house shows a model of Bunker Hill Monument in 
books, and there are many other devices to attract attention, bat 
it is only books after all. 

There is no dearth of musical instruments in the exhibit of the 
United States, such as organs and pianos, of all sizes and styles. 
There were free concerts almost every hour, on some of these in- 
struments. In this direction no other nation could rival the 
States. 

In carved and inlaid furniture, too, some of the manufacturers 
of our eastern cities make a display that will compare favorably 
with that of France, or any other nation. In watches — the man- 
ufacture of which I neglected to notice in Machinery Hall — the 
United States has suddenly taken the lead of the world. Not 
only are the Waltham and Elgin Watch Companies turning out an 
immense nuniber ('25Q,0()0 annually) of watches, but, they are to be 



76 EASTWARDHO 



preferred to the Swiss watches, taking the opinion of a Swiss gen- 
tleman, one of the International Jury on watches, at Philadel- 
phia, (M. Favre-Perret.) He says that he took from this country 
a fifth-rate Waltham watch, and the regularity with which it runs 
excites the wonder and admiration of the best adjusters in 
Neuehatel. 

And, take it where you will, the display of the United States 
shows the capacity of the country to compete with any other na 
tion in articles of utility. We are too busy a people to waste 
time in the elaboration of trifles, as they do in China and Japan ; 
but in many cases the productions of American artisans stand 
confessed as models, worthy the attention of workmen of what- 
ever nation. 

In the center of the rotunda, on a kind of a platform, which 
was, at the opening of the exhibition, used as a music-stand, we saw 
a gigantic vase, or urn, of artistic design, elaborately wrought. 
It was specially designed for a birthday present to W. C. Bryant, 
the octogenarian poet, and is one of the attractions of the build- 
ing. Since I have spoken of this vase, I must say farther, that in 
such work, as well as in the setting of pi'ecious stones in gold, 
our workmen show skill superior to that of European artisans. 

But I must desist, or I shall never come to tlie end of this long 
chapter. 

This building, which we are now leaving, contains about twenty- 
one acres. It is 1880 feet long by 464 wide, and in traversing the 
various aisles we have traveled more than eleven miles. This 
building was erected at a cost of one and a half million dollars. 
It has now been purchased by a compan}', which will make an ef- 
fort to hold a permanent Exposition, and it is said that many of the 
present exhibitors have taken space. 

Passing out at the north side, and going a few hundred feet to 
the west, we enter the Wagon and Carriage Annex. The first 
thing that atti-acts our attention, is the massiveness of the Eu- 
ropean carriages. The covered carriages were so low that a tall 
man would have to stoop on entering them, and the wheels and 
running-gear were almost as heavy as those of an American road- 
wagon ; but we think that these substantial carriages have many 
advantages over the airy "sky scrapers" that the manufacturers of 
our country are palming off on the people. We saw little worthy 
of note here, however, except some Bicycles, which are quite dif- 



EABTWARDHO! 77 



ferent from tbo old Velocipede, the front wheel being much 
larger and the hind one much smaller than in the old styles. Gen. 
Washington's old yellow coach was also on exhibition, but, aside 
from the name of its illustrious owner, I think it would attract 
but little attention. 

Now we will go on up to the northern extremity of the grounds, 
to Agricultural Hall. This building is 820 feet long by 540 wide, 
contains over ten acres, and cost in the neighborhood of three 
hundred thousand dollars. It presents a very picturesque ap- 
pearance, with its green roof and ornamental fronts. Many of 
my readers may be as much interested in this department as in 
any other, but I shall give no extended notice of it. The articles 
on exhibition here are arranged by classes, and not by countries. 
The classes are : Agricultural and Forest Products ; Pomology ; 
Land Animals ; Marine Animals, (Fish, Fish Culture and Appa- 
ratus) ; Animal and Vegetable Products ; Textile Substances, of 
whatever origin ; JMachines and Implements, &c. 

I think I may safely say, that the great attraction in this build- 
ing was "Old Abe," the veteran bald eagle, which passed through 
twenty-five battles, during the late war, in company with one of the 
Wisconsin regiments. He is not a large bird, but he sits on his 
perch as though he could say, "I am monarch of nil I survey." 
Well may the poet say : 

" 'Tis tlu- ))ir(l of our b.iniic^r, the free bird that l)ravc.«i. 
When thi' liattle is tlurc, all tlif w .'ath of the wave.>* : 
That (lii>t> li<!r pinioiis in the BiiiiV firnt giuli ; 
Drinksi hi.i niL-ridiiin blaze, lii.t farewell flush ; 
Sits 'mid th(^ sturfi, and bends her beak, 
Like the clipped falcon, when her piercing shriek 
Tells that she stoops upon l;er cleaving wing. 
To drink at some new victim's clear red spring." 

Nearly two thirds of the exhibits in this department are Amer- 
ican. In the exhibits of im[)lements there was not much that we 
had not seen before, for the machines are made in this country 
and our farmers buy them ; but the most common implements on 
exhibition here gleamed with gold and silver-plating, and most of 
the farm machinery was in motion, the motive power being sup- 
plied by small engines, though, if I mistake not, some of the ma- 
chines were moved by clock-work. It was in this section that we 
saw Daniel Webster's plow, which was a fair sample of tlie rude, 
ungainly plows of half a centtiry ago. 

In the section devoted to Natural History, there are many 



78 E A S T W A R D H O ! 



things to interest the naturalist and antifjuary, among which we 
will notice the skeletons and models of prehistoric animals, such 
as the mastodon and the plesiosaurus. 

Pisciculture is fully exemplified, and there are thirty-five large 
tanks and aquaria, showing a considerable variety of the finny 
tribe, as well as various shell-fish. 

The States which did not exhibit their agricultural wealth in 
buildings of their own, are generally represented here. We no- 
ticed that Iowa showed a sample of the soil of each of her coun- 
ties. It was put up in large glass cylinders, several feet long. 
These were set up as columns, forming rather peculiar colonnades. 

Among the food materials, we see bread of every conceivable 
kind, as well as the raw material from which it is made ; meats of 
every description, in barrels, hogsheads and huge glass cases ; 
sugars, crude and refined, raw and confectioned ; and even that 
loathsome, pois onous weed, tobacco, was granted a place, and it 
seemed as though the exhibitors were endeavoring to make the best 
of a bad matter. 

In textile fabrics the variety was almost endless. Brazil and 
Japan made a creditable display in silk culture ; and in goods, fab- 
ricated therefrom. Then the woolens, cottons and linens — the 
long array was rather tedious even to look at, but to talk about — 
excuse me. But the very finest of all the fabrics on exhibition 
here is a bit of pino cloth, from one of the Philippine Islands. 

Now I will put up my pencil, and loiter away toward the south- 
ern gate, for it is time to be thinking of reaching our resting- 
place, where we know an appetizing supper will be awaiting us. 
As we pass near the World's Ticket Office, we may venture in, but 
as we have already seen the mummies in the Main Building, it will 
not be necessary to look long at that of an Egyptian princess in 
the vestibule, and with a glance at the primitive weapons of war 
from Upper Egypt, we pass into the main room, which is circu- 
lar in shape, with ticket offices all around the walls, while in the 
center was a bazar, where you could purchase trinkets and curios- 
ities from Turkey, Egypt and the Holy Land. 



E A 8 T W A K D H (> ! 7'.) 



CHAPTER IX. 

'• l-AST DAY AT THE CENTENNIAL — THE CESTENNIAf. CITY. 

"Oh ! make Thoii us, through centnrii-s Iotir, 
In peace Becure, in jiiatico slroni; ; 
Around our gift of freedom draw 
The pafcpnards of Tliy righteous law, 
And, cast in some diviner mold, 
1-et each new cycle i<hame the old I" — [Whitlier. 

The time draws on apaoe, when yon will no more be here to 
listen to my "long-winded essays," and the story wliich I, at first, 
hesitated to tell, on account of the little I had to say, has already 
overrun the prescribed limit, and I am but half-done, but it is my 
purpose now to make a few brief notes of ray farther observations, 
and then surrender my work to the printer. 

I had intended to tell you somethinf,' of our sojourn in the home 
of my ancestors of a hundred years a^o, and of our kind recep- 
tion by their descendants of to-day ; of my visit to the battle-field 
of Chad's Ford, and something' concerning that battle; and of 
"the spreading chestnut tree," near Parkersville, Penn., not the 
one of which Longfellow wrote, but (according to local tradition) 
the one under which General Washington at one time stopped to 
rest, while campaigning in that region, (about four miles N. W. 
of Chad's Ford.) I had intended, too, to say something of our day 
at Long Branch, but all these things must stand aside, to make 
room for a very few more observations in regard to the Centennial 
and the Centennial City. 

On our return from the country, we were met by the informa 
tion that our cousin. Miss O., had arrived in the city, and woubl 
be pleased to see us. As we found her lodging in the house of 
Mr. C , an old friend, and a former resilient of our town, wo al.'^o 
took up our abode there, for tlie remainder of our .'•ojourn in the 
city. 

But to return to the exhibition. We must notice a few more of 
the smaller buildings, and will commence with the Woman's Pa 
vilion. This building is on the east side of Belmont Avenue, op 
posite the U. S. Government Building. It is a handsome etruc 
lure, covering nearly one acre, and was built at a cost of about 



80 EASTWAHDHO 



$30,000, which wa8 contributed by the women of the Unitec! 
States, 

There are entrances on the south, east and west sides of the 
building, and on either side of each entrance is a panel, bearing^ 
the inscription : '•'■Her works do praise Iter in the {fates" each 
panel bearing the inscription in a different language. At the 
north side of the building is the engine-house, with its small en- 
gine for running the machinery. Miss Emma Allison, of Grims- 
by, Ontario, is the engineer. She is no low, vulgar woman, but 
an educated and accomplished lady. 

As we would expect, this building is for the work of women 
alone, and we see here wood-carving, wax work, flower-work, and 
needle- work, of all kinds, some coming from the Royal Family of 
Great Britain, that is worthy of notice. But the finest needle- 
woi'k is displayed by Mrs. Mary S. Riley, of Louisville, Ky,; it 
consists of eight pictures in silk, mostly portraits, and so finely 
are they executed, and the shading is so delicate, that it is only 
by the closest scrutiny that they can be distinguished from steel 
engravings. 

Miss Harriet F. Bailey, of Walworth, Wisconsin, displays what 
she calls "Scissors-Sculpture." She seems able to cut out of card- 
board, anything in the shape of leaves and flowers, with her scis- 
sors. She uses no models or marks whatever to guide her. 

In wood-carving, there is some excellent work from the young 
ladies of the Cincinnati School of Design. So we might linger 
here for hours, looking over the handiwork of women, from that 
of the Royal Family of England to that of our less civilized sis- 
ters of Tunis and Japan, but other objects claim our attention. 

Just north of the Woman's Pavilion is the New Jersey State 
Building. This building, with its porticoes, dormer windows anci 
square tower, is one of the most picturesque buildings on the 
grounds, but our illustration will give a better idea of the build- 
ing than any mere pen-picture, though it does not show the har- 
monious coloring. 

East and south of the Woman's Pavilion is Horticultural Hall 
and Plateau. The Hall is the most showy building on the 
grounds, but you dp not care to hear about its contents, since yon 
went with me through the Botanical Garden at Washington, but 
we must notice the tree labeled (h/cus Hevolulata, which was said 
to have been in the possession of Robert Morris, before and dur- 
ing the Revolution. Its leaves resemble those of tree-ferns, but 




NKW JKHSKY STATM 151 IMUXJ. 



82 EASTWAEDHO! 

its thick trunk is enveloped in a rough bark, not at all pleasing to 
the eye. The plateaa, west of the Hall, is a vast flowery field, 
where the gardeners of the old world vie with those of our own 
land, in laying out beds and parterres. Here we see lawns, inonnde, 
circles, stars, kc, dotted with vases, statuary and other garden or- 
naments. The flowers, however, were not prospering when we 
saw them, on account of the great drought. 

We shall now briefly notice the Educational exhibit. The 
drawing and penmanship of the Ohio schools are superior. Yale 
College has quite a library of books, written by the faculty and 
alumni of that institution. Some Crayon sketches from Iowa at- 
tract much attention. Pennsylvania is the only State which can 
boast a building devoted entirely to Education. "We spent a few 
hours very pleasantly in this buildiug, but I am unable to do jus- 
tice to it in my brief .«?pace, and shall therefore pass it by, with but 
a few genei-al statements. The exhibits are classified by the city, 
county, or institution to which they belong. The Soldiers' Or- 
phans' schools and the Colored schools, hold a prominent place ; 
also the Institute for the Blind. We noticed, too, a section de- 
voted to Lafayette College, EastoE, Penn. The school-room of 
fifty years ago, shown in this building, was a very attractive fea- 
ture. 

Near this building was one devoted to the illustration of 
Froebels Kindergarten methods. The lady in charge seemed to 
understand her business, and every day showed off a class of well- 
trained children. Some of the children's work was on exhibition, 
too, in the shape of pea and wire-work, and block-house building. 

In a ravine, near t-he eastern extremity of the grounds, is the 
Hunter s Camp, a fac-simile of the old style hunter's cabin, with 
all its accouterments, such as guns and fishing-tackle, and its 
trophies of the chase, such as buck-horns and peltries of all kinds; 
but these camps were only the temporary residences of the hunt- 
ers, so if we wish to see how they lived with their families, we 
must go up out of the ravine to the north, and see the New Eng- 
land Log House, with its quaint furniture, and buxom house- 
keepers, in the costume of a hundred years ago. Thei-e are many 
relics here which are worthy of note, such as John Aldens secre- 
tary, and the old-fashioned cradle, but you must ask your grand. 
mothers if you wish to learn much of such things as these. 

Not very far from the New Jersey Building, is that of Kansas and 
Colorado. Their display in minerals is fair, but in agricultural 



EAST \N A n I) It f) ! 83 

products, it is grand. The huge staJks of corn, ami sheaves of 
the Bmall grain, are wrought into all kinds of fantastic shapes. 
Overhead hangs a huge "Independence Bell," fashioned out of the 
long wheat of the State ; but everybody goes to the Colorado 
wing, to see Mrs. Maxwell, the Huntress, with her unrivaled dis- 
play of stuffed birds and animals. As we were passing bj-, she 
came out of what appeared to be a cave in the rook work, (it was 
really a passage way to a private I'oom in the building) and com- 
menced petting her live prairie-dogs. She did not at all corres- 
pond with my idea of an Amazonian huntress, but on the contra- 
ry slie was a small, rather delicate-looking lady, and in her dress 
of plain black did not much resemble the picture, which repre- 
sents her in hunting costume. Her collection comprises all the 
/(tHiKi of the region, from the bison, elk and deer, to prairie dogs, 
rabbits, and squirrels. 

As we pass down Belmont Avenue we notice the Swedish 
School House, which attracts attention on account of the symmetry 
of shape and decoration, but we were not so fortunate as to get a 
peep at the inside. 

Near the Judges' Hall is the building of the Centennial Photo- 
graph Company, where you can get all kinds of views, if you are 
willing to pay enough for them. The building for the exhibition 
of Photographic art is farther to the east, near Memorial Hall. 
But. good-h}-, Centennial ! We cannot linger here ; duty callfc» 
and we obey. 

But just here, let us take a retrospective view. 

One hundred years ago, three millions of people were strug- 
gling for their indei)endence, the blessings of wliirh arc now en- 
joyed by forty millions of their descendants. One hundred years 
ago, no white man had any claim on what is now our own State, 
(Ohio): the red man at the forest roamed at will from the Ohio on 
the east, to the ^liami on the west.* Now it leads the Tnion in 
agricultural products and in the raising of cattle, and is excelled 
by no State in advancement in Manufactures, Education and Re- 
ligion. And iu a hundred years from now .' God knows. 

One hundred years ago, flintiiiaking was an important indus 
trj' ; Hints had to be shaped for mu.skets as well as tinder boxes. 
Tlien, too, pin -making was an industry requiring many men ; now 
all the work is done by machinery ; and then nails were all made 
at the forge, but they icere nails. 

•.Marietta, the oltlcst city in tho Sl«t»',' wns* luiil out in 17»>«. 



84 



E A 8 T W A K D HO 



One hundred years ago, the women, besides spinning and weav- 
ing, and making their own and their husband's clothing, made 
their own straw bonnets, and they were bonnets, too, not a frame 
on which to hang the ribbons and flowers, but a good honest bon- 
net, as big as a scoop shovel. They did not wear bonnets for 
show, in those days, and then carry parasols to protect them from 
the sun. 




MKS. MAXWELL fX HUNTEH's COSTUME. 



A few notes, now, on the "City of Brotherly Love," and we will 
close this chapter. 

The streets, in the older part of the city especially, are very nar- 
row, and not so very well kept. Chestnut Street, that great 
thorou ghfare, is so narrow, that there is barely room for a wagon 



E A 8 T W A K I) H f) I 85 



to make its wa}', on either side, between the single street-car track 
and the sidewalk. Fourteenth, or Broad Street, is the widest 
street in tluK part of the city. The streets running north and 
south are numbered, from the Delaware west ; those running east 
and west are named. 

Independence Hall is on Chestnut, above Fifth. Its real front 
is toward the "Square, " which extends from the building to Wal- 
nut Street, but as the building is on Chestnut, the north entrance 
is really the main entrance. (See frontispiece.) Here we saw the 
original "Declaration of Independence," the table, chair and 
inkstand used at the signing, the chair used by John Hancock, 
President of Congress, portraits of the signers, the old Indepen- 
dence Bell, and many other Revolutionary relics. 

A little farther down on Chestnut, is Carpenters' Hall, where 
the Colonial Congress assembled in 1774. 

At the corner of Fifth and Arch streets, is the grave of Frank- 
lin. The burial ground is surrounded by a high wall, but just op- 
posite this grave is a gap in the wall, which is filled by an iron 
picket fence. The grave is very near the sidewalk, and you can 
look through the iron fence and see the plain slab, with the simple 
inscription, "Benjamin and Deborah Franklin." So rests the 
Quaker statesman and philosopher. 

At the corner of Juniper and Chestnut streets, is the United 
States Mint, where we saw them coining money, but the point of 
greatest interest is the collection of coins, foreign and domestic, 
ancient and modern. There were also many medals in the collec- 
tion. 

The Zoological Gai'den is in Fairmount Paik, just west of the 
Schuylkill. Wo spent an afternoon very profitably here. Wo 
saw all manner of birds, reptiles and mammals. Elephants, rhi- 
noceroses, giraftes, sea-lions, ostriches, cassowarie.", alligators and 
huge serpents, may be mentioned, as samples of what may be seen 
there, but not as a list of what we saw. 

There are three grand churches at the crossing of Broad and 
Arch streets, the Baptist, at the northwest corner, the Lutheran, 
at the southwest corner, and the Methodist Episcopal, on tho 
southeast corner. These are all we can notice out of a list of 
thirty five. 

In the way of places of amusement, I visited the Walnut street 
and the Arch street Theaters, and I believe there were about ten 
other theaters in the citv. We also visited the Forest Mansion 



86 E A S T W A R D H O ! 



Garden, to hear Thomas's celebrated orchestra. There are many 
other phices of interest in the city, but I think enoiigh has been 
written. 



CHAPTER X. 

nOME'WARD BOUND NIAGARA FAI-T.S. 

'"Tis home wliere the heart is, wlierever that bo, 
In city, iD desert, iu mountain, in dell ; 
Not the Kraudenr, the nnmb.-r of objects we see, 
Rut that which we love, is the magical spell." 

It was in the early morning of Wednesday, July 19, 1876, that 
we said "good-bye" to our friends, and turned our backs on the 
Centennial City. After ranch deliberation, we had decided to 
leave New York and the Hudson out of the question, and strike for 
the Niagara Falls, via Lehigh Valley Railroad, taking a glance at 
the picturesque scenery of the Lehigh Valley, on the highlands be- 
tween that and the Susquehanna River, as we pass along. 

We left Philadelphia on the North Penn. R. R., but made con- 
nection with the Lehigh Valley Road at Bethlehem, Penn. and 
followed the devious course of the river to White Haven. At 
Mauch Chunk the road follows the channel of the river through a 
deep ravine, so narrow that there is no room for gardens, the 
houses occupying all the space between the river and the precipi- 
tous blulf. They have now commenced building on the top of the 
bluff, and call that phice Upper Mauch Chunk, or Greenwood. 
Mount Pisgah. near this place, is 1000 feet above the Lehigh. 
There is a coal deposit on the top of Mauch Chunk mountain, fifty 
feet in thickness. The scenery here is remarkably wild. 

Twenty five miles farther on, we stop for dinner, at White* Ha- 
ven, which is at the head of navigation on the Lehigh. Off to the 
northwest of this place, toward Wilkesbarre, on the Susquehanna, 
there is some vert/ fine scenery. I preferred it to the view on the 
Alleghanics, from the B. & O. road, but it is so entirely different 



E A 8 T W A R D H O ! 87 



that one cau scarcely make a decision between them. I have al- 
ready described the scenery on my eastward trip, bnt here we 
climbed the ridge, and saw the fertile valleys, with their cultivated 
fields, clustering villages and meandering rivulets, stretching away 
till they seemed to mingle with and be lost in the blue of the sky. 
In fact, the view here was so fine that I suppose my attention was 
attracted to it for full five minutes, from the copy of "Infelice ' 
which rested on my knee. This companionship must excuse me 
from giving a detailed account of the day's ride. 

On reaching Wilkesbarre, we followed the valley of the Susque- 
hanna until we reached Waverly Junction, where we took the Erie 
road and turned more to the west, passing through Elmira and 
stopping, towards evening, at Hornellsville, for supper. One pe- 
culiarity of this road is that they couple "broad gauge" and the 
common gauge cars in one train. There are three tracks, two of 
them being only sixteen inches apart, making the irons of one 
track four feet eight inches apart, while the others were six feet, 
if I mistake not. The train did not present a very good appear- 
ance, being made up of cars of different widths, but by a peculiar 
arrangement of the coupling, side draft seemed to be avoided. 

But night soon came on, and we were hurried along through 
the darkness, reaching Buffalo at midnight. After a pause here, 
we passed on to the north, toward Niagara Falls, fanned by the 
cool damp breeze from the lake, which thus manifests its presence 
to us, though we cannot see it. 

About 1 o'clock A. M., July 20th, we arrived at Niagara, and 
were conveyed to the International Hotel, where we were soon 
lulled to sleep by the roar of the great fall, which is but a little 
way from the hotel. 

In the morning we secured a carriage and driver, and all pro- 
ceeded down the river to "Whirlpool Rapids," about three miles 
below the falls. The river, which, above the falls, is about six 
thousand feet wide, here rushes through a gorge, only three hun- 
dred and sixty-one feet in width, and the angry rush of the water, 
and the ever-changing form of the central ridge, where the waves 
swell up even to bursting forth in clouds of spray, is almost as 
grand and more interesting than the fall itself. The channel here 
is about two hundred feet deep, but we reached the edge of the 
water by means of an elevator, the motive power of which was 
supplied by the rapid itself. 

At the foot of the rapid is the Whirlpool, where the eddying 



SS E A 8 T W A R D H O ! 



waters break forth in little whirlpools. A body which once gets 
into this eddy, often remains there for a week or more, madly 
plunging round and round. 

The Railway Suspension Bridge is about one and one fourth miles 
below the falls. It is eight hundred feet long, and two hundred feet 
above the water. It is a substantial structure, and very artistic, 
being a combination of a tubular and suspension bridge. The car- 
riage-way is beneath the railroad tracks. 

About sixty rods below the falls is the Upper Suspension 
Bridge. This is twelve hundred feet long — the longest span in 
the world. It is a light, airy structure, and hangs one hundred 
and ninety feet above the water. Just below this bridge, a rope 
had been stretched across the chasm, and the day before we arrived 
a lady had performed on it. 

Just below the fall, on the Canada side, is the shelf, which is all 
that remains of the celebrated Table Rock. In 1850 the greater 
part of it fell. The mass which was precipitated into the gorge 
below, was two hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, on the sur- 
face. This was formerly the popular place from which to view 
the falls. 

The river below the precipice makes an acute angle with the 
channel above. In other words, the river changes its course from 
due west to a little east of north. The American Fall is ten feet 
higher than the main or Canadian Fall. This is caused by the 
dip of the rock strata. 

Of the fall itself I have but little to say. I was fully prepared 
for what I saw, even to the reaching after pocket-books ; indeed 
this last was the most affecting part of my experience at the Falls. 
What right had they, any how, to entice an unsuspecting individ- 
ual into an elevator, and then charge a half a dollar for letting 
him out ? or to charge lifty cents for walking across a bridge ? or 
a dollar and a quarter for riding across ? Then they tried to get 
me to pay a dollar for the privilege of risking my life under the 
fall ; (I never thought, before, that a sensible man would take me 
for a lunatic.) I do wonder what they would charge a man for 
the privilege of going over the fall ? 

But you wish to know what I thought of the fall. Well, I was 
a little like the Irishman ; '"I didn't see what was to hinder it from 
falling." It would have been much stranger if it had not fallen. 
Then the bow was very fine, but how could it be otherwise, with 
the sun shining full upon such a cloud of mist? But, jesting 



F. A S T \\ A K II H O : 89 



aside, I saw but little about the falls to go into ecstasies over. A 
clear, unbroken sheet of water, twenty feet in thickness, and a 
hundred and fifty feet hi^h, smooth and unchanging as a huge 
blpck of marble, and that was all, except the deafening roar, which 
is not altogether agreeable. You see as much at a glance as you 
can in hours : but in the rapids, either above or below the falls, 
there is more of interest. One does not soon grow weary of 
watching the ever-changing rush of the hurrying avalanche of 
waters, and as we gaze, it almost seems to be an object endowed 
with life, sporting in uncouth gambols. 

Here I must close tliis tedious narrative, for there is nothing 
further worthy of note. We left Niagara in the afternoon, taking 
the Lake Shore & ^Michigan Southern R. R. at Buffalo, and arriv 
ing at Cleveland early in the morning. We did not break through' 
the Ashtabula bridge, nor in fact did we meet with any accident 
in our entire trip of seventeen hundred miles. 

Our day's ride on the C , C. & C. R. R., diagonally across the 
State of Ohio, might come in for notice here, but it is probable 
that you have heard enough from me, at this time. And if ever 
again I should call upon you to listen to me, I trust that it will 
be to something more worthy of your attention than this weak 
and wandering story. But. "what I have written, I hot'f written.' 



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